tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55206851365038322024-03-08T20:23:44.887+01:00Club N Caldes- The Open N Digital Team -Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.comBlogger166125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-78398993202033426962022-04-03T00:15:00.007+02:002022-04-03T00:20:43.724+02:00Kato 10-530 + 10-531 151系「こだま・つばめ」DCC Conversion<p>I recently bought this model, but I think it was originally released in 2010. It's a DCC Friendly model, so DCC Conversion is straight forward.</p><p>About interior lighting kits I recommend Kato 11-214. These ones are warm white, not so white as Kato 11-212. I tried also 11-212, but I changed all to 11-214.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVYmuO1WXDc-wxVKuS09YWU_rYAjpVhQVJr7S21p_fFFgV6CQFmR30-awElt554gxubRpGn6fOQjHouySDlhWuv29-TLuyMLo1zG1YTWR0-TclgjQVWlkMnfiuXAVfWHjm1dtVprLR8jJq2AUJ__iid1TuQ9KB3KNXokggZ3plXM5TLXblbswlKg/s4032/DSC_2506.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVYmuO1WXDc-wxVKuS09YWU_rYAjpVhQVJr7S21p_fFFgV6CQFmR30-awElt554gxubRpGn6fOQjHouySDlhWuv29-TLuyMLo1zG1YTWR0-TclgjQVWlkMnfiuXAVfWHjm1dtVprLR8jJq2AUJ__iid1TuQ9KB3KNXokggZ3plXM5TLXblbswlKg/s320/DSC_2506.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Cab and end car decoder fits very well, easier and smoother that other models:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAVFKgz1Ql5r6KYC9jPYV-J7K9ojFGi2YnpdMaQfk58TEgKj5k847f4zGwTwaBO5SDHYxOE9ZYsUZue4XOKRws0JL0RTragoIhXmhahA7T6joporjQKKqCeh0ReTpHAjTxJzqVR6OcMwR9c1LGd9FpRi-vdKYWLzHA5FmMK4qLIVIXGbw-I73jz4/s4032/DSC_2508.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAVFKgz1Ql5r6KYC9jPYV-J7K9ojFGi2YnpdMaQfk58TEgKj5k847f4zGwTwaBO5SDHYxOE9ZYsUZue4XOKRws0JL0RTragoIhXmhahA7T6joporjQKKqCeh0ReTpHAjTxJzqVR6OcMwR9c1LGd9FpRi-vdKYWLzHA5FmMK4qLIVIXGbw-I73jz4/s320/DSC_2508.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">About motor decoder, make sure you use Kapton tape to isolate it. I burned more that one because the body is metallic, and if the decoder gets in contact with the metallic part it instantaneously burns. So now I always do it doesn't matter the train model:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRereJ_R07n_0rYA1rqGCFPLZVCE4O5x04tX7LzVFVMOqyyYeZSU2JiQqb-0SLBZKErhUtRn16oAOjPDHTNVQEVwIbCaUQupin4O6KNCtEieh7X7ig1E9HSH5UAXk4ULuGZRtBfMSGPbOfSodu-m0WhdojyicyOv5bM-R5xaOcgxELKjGTC3xuuD0/s4032/DSC_2531.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRereJ_R07n_0rYA1rqGCFPLZVCE4O5x04tX7LzVFVMOqyyYeZSU2JiQqb-0SLBZKErhUtRn16oAOjPDHTNVQEVwIbCaUQupin4O6KNCtEieh7X7ig1E9HSH5UAXk4ULuGZRtBfMSGPbOfSodu-m0WhdojyicyOv5bM-R5xaOcgxELKjGTC3xuuD0/s320/DSC_2531.JPG" width="180" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh36ADqRRTaCtBo-ZSDMYAcmlyEkqvkk_VR95hHXsX69MPqAYLwqzJuEJTnbbRqylfUaPrE8BZbqiTtL5XiwdTwi33H6c9ktzV8ZTwf18vg-2FWyQdBqckwh9NVUU6a4qh93_CmdhH4BcNwp3zILv9uydd--Fyy5WIZ2cvlloBZ4SKOXdvMo-81T68/s4032/DSC_2533.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh36ADqRRTaCtBo-ZSDMYAcmlyEkqvkk_VR95hHXsX69MPqAYLwqzJuEJTnbbRqylfUaPrE8BZbqiTtL5XiwdTwi33H6c9ktzV8ZTwf18vg-2FWyQdBqckwh9NVUU6a4qh93_CmdhH4BcNwp3zILv9uydd--Fyy5WIZ2cvlloBZ4SKOXdvMo-81T68/s320/DSC_2533.JPG" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I must say I'm a little bit disappointed with this model. First reason is that windows detach on their own, so open the car upside down and keep the hull in this position to insert the methacrylate piece of the lighting kit and to close it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Second thing is that top front and rear bogies derails in any curve. Seems like they don't pivot easily, so I had to pivot them several times with my fingers until they were able to turn smoothly.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, it runs well and with 12 illuminated cars it looks impressive:</div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTnH_pfQE2OAEHyUbfQUxbtWywaoEkXr0gi9I4VPhvnuOqh4nDmmYIIXVA4aAfNz9-PE4_E-r5qunczhcywCV1yszeqPiOjkWHqwHhAzBShILBvAhqciAMf8Xe240pkDuiAhQfSQy20dG_6EBd-0qCd5wmSfHK0FaXwlgkvkEIz5m65lo8GI_t-0/s4032/DSC_2510.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTnH_pfQE2OAEHyUbfQUxbtWywaoEkXr0gi9I4VPhvnuOqh4nDmmYIIXVA4aAfNz9-PE4_E-r5qunczhcywCV1yszeqPiOjkWHqwHhAzBShILBvAhqciAMf8Xe240pkDuiAhQfSQy20dG_6EBd-0qCd5wmSfHK0FaXwlgkvkEIz5m65lo8GI_t-0/s320/DSC_2510.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPx1WpW0Q4WwyXV3_vmuxe9vz5upm5Wq_TpWIBkAkAglo3q8Hc_Ikw82TMxqQlh2mapKqrwECKfldJUTVWeUUTE-v2FJDBn-oZHEdEdqgZpJGcVJL_foEfC-3vk8XSNe0d5mJ2D_lVOBg7hYtVLk3U8N7JBYlC-hZLEQw-5pjvEanhGW7g7Gw88Xc/s4032/DSC_2512.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPx1WpW0Q4WwyXV3_vmuxe9vz5upm5Wq_TpWIBkAkAglo3q8Hc_Ikw82TMxqQlh2mapKqrwECKfldJUTVWeUUTE-v2FJDBn-oZHEdEdqgZpJGcVJL_foEfC-3vk8XSNe0d5mJ2D_lVOBg7hYtVLk3U8N7JBYlC-hZLEQw-5pjvEanhGW7g7Gw88Xc/s320/DSC_2512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DY0cQvzH024sDMNpfTiHesPNzH7aff3jU_oYA8FDB2ko_w-9ZHzYzJampA_j4YKvOQ5IZp3Isjtsl0TlwV3Gph8wp0YnaSX3swD9o2bLyGfaNnDDPXuIqTALUaI4shiO7rQHy8PjPQwhYa1LWNsUbND80352R3fRiI523WUsO4dxpa9apxpLpO8/s4032/DSC_2514.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DY0cQvzH024sDMNpfTiHesPNzH7aff3jU_oYA8FDB2ko_w-9ZHzYzJampA_j4YKvOQ5IZp3Isjtsl0TlwV3Gph8wp0YnaSX3swD9o2bLyGfaNnDDPXuIqTALUaI4shiO7rQHy8PjPQwhYa1LWNsUbND80352R3fRiI523WUsO4dxpa9apxpLpO8/s320/DSC_2514.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQRFdX3ZUQZqpYohmpOGyTO5cyip0qERt0dztc-Z2QNzZsdv2biLjkGlMf-09kk7a_oBfkkLduKi3-LmnKCAmZWc3j5AUEbwQvltpE8WyhKMMosj0i_Bpug4e0o2svNTFcglpCIO3NQSQuS-uEafltJ_AJeec336khtknAMwpXJK6qyBYt111qSac/s4032/DSC_2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQRFdX3ZUQZqpYohmpOGyTO5cyip0qERt0dztc-Z2QNzZsdv2biLjkGlMf-09kk7a_oBfkkLduKi3-LmnKCAmZWc3j5AUEbwQvltpE8WyhKMMosj0i_Bpug4e0o2svNTFcglpCIO3NQSQuS-uEafltJ_AJeec336khtknAMwpXJK6qyBYt111qSac/s320/DSC_2529.JPG" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2J_t6vhm3Ks" width="320" youtube-src-id="2J_t6vhm3Ks"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-43945915696671460092021-08-16T15:55:00.008+02:002021-08-16T16:04:46.153+02:00Kato 10-1644 E261 Saphir Odoriko DCC Conversion<p>This model is "DCC friendly" as written in the instruction manual, but you will find that head and tail cars have no under hatch to put the usual FL12 decoder (or I couldn't find it!). Instead, you have to open and disassemble the seats plastic piece:</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGa7k_ZgNKKWQq0q-W7KfCYjR31j2WpcagkkZtRsZTk5CwQA8d0l3FDz94nPyiX_IBAGQ2P1QXtmYsCke-_26upkT9VJJjsNNmXjRsG3bF-M9IMDpSArMoeY5PnSPAvkLwf8ujXSffNw/s4032/DSC_1917.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGa7k_ZgNKKWQq0q-W7KfCYjR31j2WpcagkkZtRsZTk5CwQA8d0l3FDz94nPyiX_IBAGQ2P1QXtmYsCke-_26upkT9VJJjsNNmXjRsG3bF-M9IMDpSArMoeY5PnSPAvkLwf8ujXSffNw/s320/DSC_1917.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had to remove two cooper strips acting as springs to insert the decoder, and then put them again in place. Be patient, these springs are not easy to put again in place keeping the decoder and the long cooper strips in place. So it's a little bit tricky and seems not secure, but after putting the sits and closing everything everything works well so far.</div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUFSLPkSNFu-LEROk_PB1Qk0XlQWk0Rr5cwWVd7MkD4iGtIZ0_LUwO6StdF5D649I7U2BUQ8c1ruDpPwPXk7qwaG29NpOTux9jsRq9URAOY4eK7DQQNGhzxId8rCoGXm7n3Ztsv-oFA/s2535/DSC_1920.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2535" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUFSLPkSNFu-LEROk_PB1Qk0XlQWk0Rr5cwWVd7MkD4iGtIZ0_LUwO6StdF5D649I7U2BUQ8c1ruDpPwPXk7qwaG29NpOTux9jsRq9URAOY4eK7DQQNGhzxId8rCoGXm7n3Ztsv-oFA/s320/DSC_1920.JPG" width="286" /></a><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>About lighting, every car has its own light panel so will not need the plastic panels that comes with kato lighting kits:</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-4t1St3NFJUUftcBYRVwHOpDFtzpe0omPxPeK28Poq1Q5h9yvv3mWEugz_sv7OFp3o2huZybrQw30kQWG4EvjMg9CjW6JRcriPCia8RvlXYFOTZGxUqHfJn3OO88VdtL1rab0YXTVg/s4032/DSC_1924.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-4t1St3NFJUUftcBYRVwHOpDFtzpe0omPxPeK28Poq1Q5h9yvv3mWEugz_sv7OFp3o2huZybrQw30kQWG4EvjMg9CjW6JRcriPCia8RvlXYFOTZGxUqHfJn3OO88VdtL1rab0YXTVg/s320/DSC_1924.JPG" width="320" /></a></p><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwApuJZ45J5gm-MzXnePukSQ94dknu0Su1rKBIoDGSiw9_Rhssu4WeE7Zxbf7MrOR0WeYGQ0nk5GKqNWDM2cqx0vEe7eIHIzJW3E1kSobHp5NFsd3af3oNlGCX3ZB5ESoxn9MemEJoxw/s4032/DSC_1925.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwApuJZ45J5gm-MzXnePukSQ94dknu0Su1rKBIoDGSiw9_Rhssu4WeE7Zxbf7MrOR0WeYGQ0nk5GKqNWDM2cqx0vEe7eIHIzJW3E1kSobHp5NFsd3af3oNlGCX3ZB5ESoxn9MemEJoxw/s320/DSC_1925.JPG" width="320" /></a></p><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p>Motor car is like any other DCC Friendly model:</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55J89WRN7WFufGEIE1QkeLitXjJp1IObLDsK080AP3mir9ci7UPosLE8Rz99zdPJH9xdUJWaNGP7bfvwWLLzJqMpRSPd8TxXNqTGlwO02zf5WPIjkXotm1R1adq0MtvypEH-FyOMuQQ/s4032/DSC_1932.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55J89WRN7WFufGEIE1QkeLitXjJp1IObLDsK080AP3mir9ci7UPosLE8Rz99zdPJH9xdUJWaNGP7bfvwWLLzJqMpRSPd8TxXNqTGlwO02zf5WPIjkXotm1R1adq0MtvypEH-FyOMuQQ/s320/DSC_1932.JPG" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">It's nice that every car has a special light panel or diffuser, and the decoration of each car is also exquisite. The big windows allow to see perfectly and enjoy the interiors.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyEq-ZazTAz7LlkQrG5-KM5fjz3CFIrG0vi2_I_lhSeTqYyr4br550CNTVpXdEM3ZkR5VBKZv4DQUQMp-44f8v59RwIHK48rUiFxsz5dj_FOBAh9ZOkX7C7GTZjRvNYaixci-GulPhw/s4032/DSC_1929.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyEq-ZazTAz7LlkQrG5-KM5fjz3CFIrG0vi2_I_lhSeTqYyr4br550CNTVpXdEM3ZkR5VBKZv4DQUQMp-44f8v59RwIHK48rUiFxsz5dj_FOBAh9ZOkX7C7GTZjRvNYaixci-GulPhw/s320/DSC_1929.JPG" width="320" /></a></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw82QORWuIiEuFIgRKKHJDbEDuESFWIBMD8cFxoSZ_Ntv-2TQ5xIcdjFuHcgVKWEmLbkx2x-PTuooHSYFCbRH3UYl89mq0cyFSnHt0UTncIBY0XNuD6LhwTD3sZFNPAzWkPExwmxtt_Q/s4032/DSC_1940.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw82QORWuIiEuFIgRKKHJDbEDuESFWIBMD8cFxoSZ_Ntv-2TQ5xIcdjFuHcgVKWEmLbkx2x-PTuooHSYFCbRH3UYl89mq0cyFSnHt0UTncIBY0XNuD6LhwTD3sZFNPAzWkPExwmxtt_Q/s320/DSC_1940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ukCVnbnTF3PfjFB4pEnujph2kBsfOXSqek2lyIFRFomPTQ_ueWGLauDES7SXiZGcJ7tKnzMqpz3sEBYJKCWgHy-MtkTrka5CVnD4uz2zgD4Ai138dunFezr47xfUZ7XuAaH3KhFMAQ/s4032/DSC_1938.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ukCVnbnTF3PfjFB4pEnujph2kBsfOXSqek2lyIFRFomPTQ_ueWGLauDES7SXiZGcJ7tKnzMqpz3sEBYJKCWgHy-MtkTrka5CVnD4uz2zgD4Ai138dunFezr47xfUZ7XuAaH3KhFMAQ/s320/DSC_1938.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYlPF0PMypsuhIlzKR1LFZSF0Z-DLU-8VFhXu7ufCpB8nHh2CkEpJD4L1begDw3kf6eG1mlL4TW6CIKHhvncg0I1GtrzlhjkbHMUdNSoIVxa12KLf286UNgAexnql3tMsWMf4Y-73kQ/s4032/DSC_1937.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYlPF0PMypsuhIlzKR1LFZSF0Z-DLU-8VFhXu7ufCpB8nHh2CkEpJD4L1begDw3kf6eG1mlL4TW6CIKHhvncg0I1GtrzlhjkbHMUdNSoIVxa12KLf286UNgAexnql3tMsWMf4Y-73kQ/s320/DSC_1937.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPYYvVJmr0FHW2_ZsHNQJ-IoMtqQSuTlyQQq4GE9GaTyM6UwpezZd_u5wIZUXa6EXQ23A7cQzI-K4UAVOchYzb-Y95lZzlSXZ4WZF-cMs7dXhsEf4pWf-E5GhRLp63BeNm7TbqF5FXg/s4032/DSC_1936.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPYYvVJmr0FHW2_ZsHNQJ-IoMtqQSuTlyQQq4GE9GaTyM6UwpezZd_u5wIZUXa6EXQ23A7cQzI-K4UAVOchYzb-Y95lZzlSXZ4WZF-cMs7dXhsEf4pWf-E5GhRLp63BeNm7TbqF5FXg/s320/DSC_1936.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsKpdEEuaKqdLmw6zjuMfwV23z_sl3OgTNP4gaT9dgaPJYpS_JSyy9VWy0Mii4jkVI_IoaA_HWzzx_UtG7piKy3CPS0ln50wb04k9RBha95IDSSj1OnbR_gCiMnvBFLv4T7NTi5dWyw/s4032/DSC_1935.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsKpdEEuaKqdLmw6zjuMfwV23z_sl3OgTNP4gaT9dgaPJYpS_JSyy9VWy0Mii4jkVI_IoaA_HWzzx_UtG7piKy3CPS0ln50wb04k9RBha95IDSSj1OnbR_gCiMnvBFLv4T7NTi5dWyw/s320/DSC_1935.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJf73T8WliZpeO52d_U_9CkAVKMjh6rNXK1eXbiBsYYnq1ytKPo9HoVKiBOcXA-wpRF9Cr_AcZxPl8Dh3HhO4OH4rz2U-AAcJOfw5dl40RJ_PIjhPrZrQl2ljmJNFYh-ScF8C1pDhY4Q/s4032/DSC_1934.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJf73T8WliZpeO52d_U_9CkAVKMjh6rNXK1eXbiBsYYnq1ytKPo9HoVKiBOcXA-wpRF9Cr_AcZxPl8Dh3HhO4OH4rz2U-AAcJOfw5dl40RJ_PIjhPrZrQl2ljmJNFYh-ScF8C1pDhY4Q/s4032/DSC_1934.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJf73T8WliZpeO52d_U_9CkAVKMjh6rNXK1eXbiBsYYnq1ytKPo9HoVKiBOcXA-wpRF9Cr_AcZxPl8Dh3HhO4OH4rz2U-AAcJOfw5dl40RJ_PIjhPrZrQl2ljmJNFYh-ScF8C1pDhY4Q/s320/DSC_1934.JPG" width="320" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I hope you enjoyed it and that you find the way to install the cab and end car decoders easier than me!!<p></p><div><br /></div>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-1497898827180791772021-08-03T01:26:00.005+02:002021-08-03T01:38:22.399+02:00Greenmax Multiple Tie Tamper 09-16 DCC ESU Sound<p> I finished my first sound project using an ESU sound decoder, in this case a LokSound 5 Nano. First of all I have to admit that there is no competence for ESU sound decoders. First of all the decoder comes complete with his speaker already soldered and a very smart way to make the soundbox, with different sized plastic pieces that you glue together to make the soundbox as much taller as the available space.</p><p>But it's not only about how well packaged it is, the sound is incredible, really powerful and with no distortion. The decoder is wired for 6 functions, the motor control is smooth and precise, and it has tons of parameters to adjust effects, intensities, sound parameters, random sounds, events,... just awesome!!!</p><p>You pay for it, but it really beats any competence.</p><p><br /></p><p>But let's start the work. First of all open the locomotive and unclip the motor. The motor has two small metallic pieces that won't be used (see them in the second photo, next to the motor):</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vwbfqeBXcg1NCOvbl424G37h7VUnRRROBLEyCI0KkiF-0a9-qbH2hQyPGTdRhQHYFmz0d0u1_TqbV93_1COoIoER5edNg7b07eD8bYohtrvVHmseEbCH_O1xChdrQsy4aJjSJEaiSA/s4032/DSC_1814.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vwbfqeBXcg1NCOvbl424G37h7VUnRRROBLEyCI0KkiF-0a9-qbH2hQyPGTdRhQHYFmz0d0u1_TqbV93_1COoIoER5edNg7b07eD8bYohtrvVHmseEbCH_O1xChdrQsy4aJjSJEaiSA/s320/DSC_1814.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVFKVm5glRKt_kUuuL9e8gaXB8HLbODNxiHPCcPP4RhrbtnDrIAmFxIyiLccTShtChxUFqeleo6UiyskbWR8b8H1MgUg65rMBCsu05P6MO14EquR6O7XonlyJx-lkLv5PLuPFg9qNeg/s4032/DSC_1816.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVFKVm5glRKt_kUuuL9e8gaXB8HLbODNxiHPCcPP4RhrbtnDrIAmFxIyiLccTShtChxUFqeleo6UiyskbWR8b8H1MgUg65rMBCsu05P6MO14EquR6O7XonlyJx-lkLv5PLuPFg9qNeg/s320/DSC_1816.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I started soldering the motor wires as you can see in the following photo:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRbs6S6W5PRFiKFQ49WP6iNRgRiEAuz3a3UDSdx3o3j5dOPKjLEHCJfYhKUV-2KkluZVL4N4iYH0PdihhKSnVjZponwjSb0f_xDncvo1b0qSA1q5B2HQlFtDXQmXH6uXbA_iIehsMPQ/s4032/DSC_1818.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRbs6S6W5PRFiKFQ49WP6iNRgRiEAuz3a3UDSdx3o3j5dOPKjLEHCJfYhKUV-2KkluZVL4N4iYH0PdihhKSnVjZponwjSb0f_xDncvo1b0qSA1q5B2HQlFtDXQmXH6uXbA_iIehsMPQ/s320/DSC_1818.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then glue the soundbox. I used the tallest piece from the kit for that. I could have added an extra piece and make it bigger as there is room enough, but just with that it sounds amazing. There is a place where the speaker fits perfectly fixed, so I didn't use glue nor double sided tape:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXqEAMeKjzjisd2aroS2fgiXt9iJF7Gmu0uNl-3CxdSUqG0o90dpRSo4iTKJ88m982M0xYRuaMT47bB9332n-xAX9qgLfoXyLWfT1j39jWkcgvB8tCmC5EqQr5GRDjAcbGMnZzxBfYQ/s4032/DSC_1817.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXqEAMeKjzjisd2aroS2fgiXt9iJF7Gmu0uNl-3CxdSUqG0o90dpRSo4iTKJ88m982M0xYRuaMT47bB9332n-xAX9qgLfoXyLWfT1j39jWkcgvB8tCmC5EqQr5GRDjAcbGMnZzxBfYQ/s320/DSC_1817.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I saw the lights quite difficult to connect, as the board has no place in the visible side to solder and it is completely fixed to the body frame. It has an extra car that would need also its own decoder or extend the function wires to this car, so you cannot detach it again. Finally I decided I would do a very simple conversion connecting only the motor and sound, lights will be always lit on. Here you can see it from both sides to check the connections:</div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwRQYpxpvHWfI-nJh-asryAVHh8caYz6XoCRoG6WelLZH4-PY0M5KdkOJCZCFqBfjFjVRjC4q6oD5mFxD9MyviT4tT0NTAbAgbQWLh0BnVYsd_heGGE24D6hKlHSMGeywXf9lqFhr_g/s4032/DSC_1843.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwRQYpxpvHWfI-nJh-asryAVHh8caYz6XoCRoG6WelLZH4-PY0M5KdkOJCZCFqBfjFjVRjC4q6oD5mFxD9MyviT4tT0NTAbAgbQWLh0BnVYsd_heGGE24D6hKlHSMGeywXf9lqFhr_g/s320/DSC_1843.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNabYMBqbNAVixumgmjKIi8s7Qpe7NO4sywbd0ENVwTpDQAYeLADU4e-bCdqeyiMwdqk4QuR9goTmotLDXUOxS9W02wTgmSEvby8BHTbIwfaoFNxDx3LpMRYHTUukfIVX59mGlDywvwA/s4032/DSC_1844.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNabYMBqbNAVixumgmjKIi8s7Qpe7NO4sywbd0ENVwTpDQAYeLADU4e-bCdqeyiMwdqk4QuR9goTmotLDXUOxS9W02wTgmSEvby8BHTbIwfaoFNxDx3LpMRYHTUukfIVX59mGlDywvwA/s320/DSC_1844.JPG" width="320" /></a><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So that's it, it was hard enough to learn how to make a sound project, find original Preiser & Theurer sounds... don't expect a complicated conversion with extra lights and effects. :)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the sound project I started from the ESU Class 66/77 / EMD JT42CWR Sound Project (http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/search?q=Class+66%2F77+%2F+EMD+JT42CWR) as the motor seemed to me to be the closest one, and then added original Plasser & Theurer tie tamper sounds to reproduce the clamp, tamping sound at low speed, horns... etc</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can download the sound project <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QIP2MuFNn6DjSBWMXkzg3a48RnQniF52/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">here</a>. These are the implemented functions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">List of functions:
F0: Lights
F1: "Sound on/off"
F2: "Work horn"
F3: "Air horn"
F4: "Tamper / shunting"
F5: "Grimper"
F6: "Radiator fan"
F7: "Cab door"
F8: "Worker Vibration"
F9: "Worker 1"
F10: "Worker 2"
F11: "Coupler clank"
F12: "Dinamic break fan"
F13: "Brake off/on"
F14: "Conductor signal"
F15: "Compressor"
F16: "Compressor air off"
F17: "Brake function"
F18: "Brake release/set"
F19: "Switch flange"
F20: "Rail clank"
F21: "Airhorn short"
F22: "Curve squeal"
F23: "Manual notching"
F24: "Disable break snd"
F25: "Fade out sound"
F26: "Shift 2"
F27: "Shift 3"
F28: "Shift 4"
F29: "Shift 5"
F30: "Shift 6"</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">By the way, many thanks to the <a href="https://jnsforum.com/community/" target="_blank">JNSForum </a>and the <a href="https://desktopstation.net/sounds/index_eng.html" target="_blank">Desktop Station Open Sound Data</a> page who encouraged me to make this project and share it. Check their awesome sound projects for Japanese rolling stock.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can see some final photos and a video demonstration:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3ZKYU575rPjdnIMZ3a2hz_JnibBfGnukp4cYGbqKVOlQyjmFIYZVaKhZg9-WmYhOar-RcSqbMEJ1pg49h4-W5voukBXhsinu7o0kTdogEP1K5UxtrW2mN-8JWhB4pjG1OdIUhcGEyg/s1557/2021-08-03+00_53_12-Window.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1557" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3ZKYU575rPjdnIMZ3a2hz_JnibBfGnukp4cYGbqKVOlQyjmFIYZVaKhZg9-WmYhOar-RcSqbMEJ1pg49h4-W5voukBXhsinu7o0kTdogEP1K5UxtrW2mN-8JWhB4pjG1OdIUhcGEyg/s320/2021-08-03+00_53_12-Window.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfv1L7jcNU99VLM2QKy2Ig9LBvZjr5_54xtb1n9rUc-B81LCFwRRXuXDAyj024TJavUAtYJZncowZwN3PE4eWvQpj-mxwKPcr968Yk9D1pLXoReqiEEuRC2tg4QOeon_2DvFZHamre2A/s1722/2021-08-03+00_54_21-Window.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1722" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfv1L7jcNU99VLM2QKy2Ig9LBvZjr5_54xtb1n9rUc-B81LCFwRRXuXDAyj024TJavUAtYJZncowZwN3PE4eWvQpj-mxwKPcr968Yk9D1pLXoReqiEEuRC2tg4QOeon_2DvFZHamre2A/s320/2021-08-03+00_54_21-Window.png" width="320" /></a></div></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/62vAHGQbKYQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="62vAHGQbKYQ"></iframe></div><br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-36927245133313378402021-07-19T21:57:00.004+02:002021-07-19T21:59:38.994+02:00GreenMax Ballast Regulator KSP2002E DCC Conversion<p> After many (good) changes in my personal live I managed to have a little bit of time to spend in my hobby again. I'm working in the two Greenmax models: Ballast Regulator and Tie Tamper.</p><p><br /></p><p>In this article I'll show you how I converted the Ballast Regulator KSP2002E (Greenmax catalog number 4784) in a simple way, using a D&H DH05 decoder. For the Tie Tamper model, I want to install also sound, and I'm making a customized ESU sound project.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIaf13C3sD-sYv8goSuYnF71DGEXvYxnJRYLxaaC58R58H73UII2-7vk_GBZ2ZnIx_1geGduGIUHlS7vkmwOGbGzgDCdpSrxUI-efIojbawZrWtH_ViKdCw2LfmxXRu2knC8tDz9Dxw/s4032/DSC_1696.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIaf13C3sD-sYv8goSuYnF71DGEXvYxnJRYLxaaC58R58H73UII2-7vk_GBZ2ZnIx_1geGduGIUHlS7vkmwOGbGzgDCdpSrxUI-efIojbawZrWtH_ViKdCw2LfmxXRu2knC8tDz9Dxw/s320/DSC_1696.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>This is the disassembled model. There are 3 light boards (front, rear and interior lighting), each one having two springs to pick up the current. The strategy I followed is to get rid of the spring of one side for both front and rear light boards, and the opposite one for the interior lighting board.</p><p>So each board remains with only one spring, and the other is removed and at this point I will solder the decoder wires for lighting (white and yellow). Red and black wires (current) will be soldered in the remaining springs, this is why I left the springs in different sides of the boards.</p><p>But may be with an image it's easier to understand:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0CNOh7HCJK0hT7jKrIqJ1rJO5SDJ0HHePEG4le8QYJNhSJ0JtsmTAnFBitike9vga-xZ07KZ5Igpy6wcE1mYaEkVLK5QuJcqrVVzLZXkarJtUdf3l9MJVk1LAcUBuGrHMlXqT7bryQ/s4032/DSC_1698.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0CNOh7HCJK0hT7jKrIqJ1rJO5SDJ0HHePEG4le8QYJNhSJ0JtsmTAnFBitike9vga-xZ07KZ5Igpy6wcE1mYaEkVLK5QuJcqrVVzLZXkarJtUdf3l9MJVk1LAcUBuGrHMlXqT7bryQ/s320/DSC_1698.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhktQ8ipvNxblm4tTZ_V4Kcfe37okVqmtqwOozyxaAVAnFIgqK1G38Ld5ckmdFkI8P9PfuoiHgstQoBWbbAr7V3sBHW5KAR15064CPJAMmI7qnCe4ZOWjofOyJkJwokdEjT378046OAg/s4032/DSC_1805.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhktQ8ipvNxblm4tTZ_V4Kcfe37okVqmtqwOozyxaAVAnFIgqK1G38Ld5ckmdFkI8P9PfuoiHgstQoBWbbAr7V3sBHW5KAR15064CPJAMmI7qnCe4ZOWjofOyJkJwokdEjT378046OAg/s320/DSC_1805.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>You can see the yellow wire is soldered at the point where I removed the sprint of the front and rear light boards. White wire is soldered to the point where I removed the spring of the interior light board. Note that the spring removed from the interior light board correspond to the opposite rail than those removed from the front and rear light boards. Add Kapton tape to the bottom of the decoder!</div><div><br /></div><div>Then black and red wires are soldered to the base points of the remaining springs. Orange and gray are soldered to the motor. Note that you will have to bend the tab of the cooper strips so they are not in contact with the motor. And better add some Kapton tape at this point for better isolation:</div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikZQVWOaGCJno-AhnPyfelzbeSEsMaZP7V5vWnadvJTfS4h92Sgz8RBgjgdyhcQFybj7-tsfeqEzQhuC5_oyvLAR-FVQ9My2Hzs27oMuAX9cLLcrNSeejkpprEr7vd2_euYMWhe8YyAg/s4032/DSC_1697.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikZQVWOaGCJno-AhnPyfelzbeSEsMaZP7V5vWnadvJTfS4h92Sgz8RBgjgdyhcQFybj7-tsfeqEzQhuC5_oyvLAR-FVQ9My2Hzs27oMuAX9cLLcrNSeejkpprEr7vd2_euYMWhe8YyAg/s320/DSC_1697.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>And this is pretty much the work needed. Note that wiring it in this way you do NOT have directional lights. So with one function key you turn on all the "exterior" lights and with another you can turn the interior lighting. But I don't see any logic for this machine to have directional lights (there are no "red" lights). I tried to add a micro led for the emergency light on the roof, but I saw it impossible for me as it is too close to the edge of the roof.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYSPIfyInwyO6asBU5WTmd-vAkcGjUfZh_B80i1WhXWAUfzw88nZ4aAz-GS1s0ksJH1QBXtAPfOaQyIf13y-nXwge4gNqBTCsXUYqcvGoedwFV1-zttS7a90ITO-fS8bP31ZFsc2A_Q/s4032/DSC_1811.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYSPIfyInwyO6asBU5WTmd-vAkcGjUfZh_B80i1WhXWAUfzw88nZ4aAz-GS1s0ksJH1QBXtAPfOaQyIf13y-nXwge4gNqBTCsXUYqcvGoedwFV1-zttS7a90ITO-fS8bP31ZFsc2A_Q/s320/DSC_1811.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6eFbLIXd5QZ8oqxofo_dXcFEDOFsOO_co4M359rwQK7fVkpKzpBBXLSk9UvMSYKE1AM1tU-bXxpQuN7Wdkhvbq5BO36P8GNzXvdWJQUk3xjSUnWUmZ_8GnxRWhS86t9qP6LsLezycA/s4032/DSC_1813.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6eFbLIXd5QZ8oqxofo_dXcFEDOFsOO_co4M359rwQK7fVkpKzpBBXLSk9UvMSYKE1AM1tU-bXxpQuN7Wdkhvbq5BO36P8GNzXvdWJQUk3xjSUnWUmZ_8GnxRWhS86t9qP6LsLezycA/s320/DSC_1813.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Let's see if I'm able to create a good sound project (my first one) for the next Greenmax model. I hope to write again soon!!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-6957290642521840932020-12-30T01:40:00.010+01:002021-01-10T23:11:47.655+01:00Philips HUE illumination system with Rocrail (2/2)<p>Before you continue reading, it is assumed that you have your Philips HUE Bridge installed and working with some lights, and it has a fixed IP Address that you know. Also, the bridge must connected to the same local network (same router or Wi-Fi) than the computer running Rocrail. If not, you can check the previous post <a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2020/12/philips-hue-illumination-system-with.html">here</a>.</p><p>The first thing you have to do in your track plan is to open the Rocrail Properties under the File menu and add a new command station of type "HUE":</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN61OkuGD4uBSfHPijbtUavFx8w2TlgCdukiaCd9jEwrIY7bGtq9ckHkFx3R6OAaAemePfIq0t_9dDrWyedql45c8KdSAkdcayw-v2-D_wyKKDvW79epducJ4XsLOXl1E9YPEbkv3g2g/s799/central.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="799" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN61OkuGD4uBSfHPijbtUavFx8w2TlgCdukiaCd9jEwrIY7bGtq9ckHkFx3R6OAaAemePfIq0t_9dDrWyedql45c8KdSAkdcayw-v2-D_wyKKDvW79epducJ4XsLOXl1E9YPEbkv3g2g/w400-h363/central.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>In hostname field put the IP address of your HUE bridge, and leave the User ID blank for the moment. This is explained also in the wiki of Rocrail: <a href="https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=philips:hue-en" target="_blank">https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=philips:hue-en</a></p><p>Next step is to create in the HUE bridge a user name to allow Rocrail to access to it and manage the lights, but for that Rocrail has implemented a special functionality. Go the the tab of decoder programming, write in the IID field the name of the newly created controller and press the PT button. This will get a new user from the HUE bridge and the User ID field of the image above will be automatically filled in. At the time of writing this post the instructions of Rocrail were not updated, so be careful if you try to follow the instructions from <a href="https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=philips:hue-en#programming_the_user_id" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZf0dDe-dJZLdh_JNctizPOjwOXGHrgDNEyjBOcsw11tOySQsN_oQBppG0lBGCDWC9LR4EVBl1FzqmvFngoHyHt13AmRqGB2IEZRkd1Far_JEQCTSVOiqC64EdPvvSJJlPjobQ0j-AqA/s929/proghue.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="929" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZf0dDe-dJZLdh_JNctizPOjwOXGHrgDNEyjBOcsw11tOySQsN_oQBppG0lBGCDWC9LR4EVBl1FzqmvFngoHyHt13AmRqGB2IEZRkd1Far_JEQCTSVOiqC64EdPvvSJJlPjobQ0j-AqA/w400-h265/proghue.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There is also a very useful configuration screen for Philips HUE under the Programming menu. From there you can see the Bridge configuration and the lights linked with <b>the address number that you will use for the weather configuration:</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3m-ksKhiZVpFWFXm1bhMQ2l_IccYHWi1gMm7cFFThRReIhYGf1z3IHMk_qgCMDfWlc_zop3zzdQJPWy5MFSBhVrqkv_GOCpDnXapWsJ3Wu-R1As_2ViSoEWauhJkWQTVy03QVm3_4Q/s500/hueconf.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="500" height="359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3m-ksKhiZVpFWFXm1bhMQ2l_IccYHWi1gMm7cFFThRReIhYGf1z3IHMk_qgCMDfWlc_zop3zzdQJPWy5MFSBhVrqkv_GOCpDnXapWsJ3Wu-R1As_2ViSoEWauhJkWQTVy03QVm3_4Q/w400-h359/hueconf.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next step is to create the light objects in rocrail, one for each physical light linked to the HUE Bridge. For each light you have to identify the interface (the name of the new controller you created) and the address that you checked in the screen corresponding to the image above. Define these output objects as type "lights". You can set in the "Value" field the desired intensity for this light:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VtLLPqb9oCLV1N98uayrIJMsjiXTnsREfgyy4uQjQIOUBH4mwcH6rjIsHFdoaHakcs1E7M1R6uiV78E7SxAi_wJib0mF8Zoz7-AefL-ZWpnHq5ewkODXBg06OQAW8lWrT4ID6jN2Dg/s1095/huelight.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1095" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VtLLPqb9oCLV1N98uayrIJMsjiXTnsREfgyy4uQjQIOUBH4mwcH6rjIsHFdoaHakcs1E7M1R6uiV78E7SxAi_wJib0mF8Zoz7-AefL-ZWpnHq5ewkODXBg06OQAW8lWrT4ID6jN2Dg/w400-h230/huelight.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And finally, you can setup the weather functionality. The complete description can be found on Rocrail wiki: <a href="https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=weather-en">https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=weather-en</a></div><br />Basically, you have to select Weather under Tables menus and write the name of your recently created lights in the Outputs field (comma separated). I suggest you to use the "Colour table" and load one of the profiles already included in rocrail specially for HUE lights. Try to change some parameters to set the illumination you like, and test also the Theme tab where you can create storm effects if you have a white HUE lamp also linked to the bridge for lightning effects. I hope you enjoy it!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBaasfAmqLfCodG5o0H1FYIcewGDAU695ZSrq0R-iCiBsNGEyptSnUNYJ5xTl5EuC1VMiuOJwlvE1Pthj9mD-UDed6otH86gDK5_DMnyN0vyz2Ril0DNwJHuh0bihuGtmp2C6rDSkBIQ/s575/hueweather.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="575" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBaasfAmqLfCodG5o0H1FYIcewGDAU695ZSrq0R-iCiBsNGEyptSnUNYJ5xTl5EuC1VMiuOJwlvE1Pthj9mD-UDed6otH86gDK5_DMnyN0vyz2Ril0DNwJHuh0bihuGtmp2C6rDSkBIQ/s320/hueweather.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-33013045951994792902020-12-28T02:31:00.004+01:002020-12-30T00:43:50.497+01:00Philips HUE illumination system with Rocrail (1/2)<p>Some time ago I published the following article explaining how to make an illumination system for the layout, compatible with the weather functionality of Rocrail:</p><p><a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/01/layout-illumination-and-weather.html">http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/01/layout-illumination-and-weather.html</a></p><p>But for those who don't want to use Arduino and make their own electronics, I'll show you how to use the Philips HUE system, much easier and professional, but a little bit more expensive. Anyway I'll show you also cheaper lamps to use than the original ones from Philips.</p><p>The first thing you will need is a Philips HUE bridge, this is what you will connect to your network (and to Rocrail) and manages all the lights you want to install:</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlc_iao0qvB6LwUe0KbMuFbAvw15PRmiRCQOl5bgJ0_tLd4kPDFAtgwMez-gN_o5HRGbaYkq6CTUNArlvnAu-kv8bMZ0Q8duVLUUlQhRZEGkPWsjflo06urgOq0VdthBb1-dnYEm6Dw/s543/BRIDGE.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="543" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlc_iao0qvB6LwUe0KbMuFbAvw15PRmiRCQOl5bgJ0_tLd4kPDFAtgwMez-gN_o5HRGbaYkq6CTUNArlvnAu-kv8bMZ0Q8duVLUUlQhRZEGkPWsjflo06urgOq0VdthBb1-dnYEm6Dw/s320/BRIDGE.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HUE Bridge</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p>You will need also some compatible RGB colour lights. There are kits including the bridge and some light bulbs, or a remote switch. Depending on the layout size, disposition, environment light or on the number of lights you want to install there are different options. Basically you have the following options:</p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFJ7QN3hI3aZL-0E1kD3GmelmHnNnaOI1e1xK0yzMbSKg1_OrO7eZT4-31Yl_CGYse3MW57iiwFf4zk0kyMX2_GaQPLDzwIdyFTCQsOA-ecm7VCirR3YupTDUYuTWcon7YrUXlVwW8A/s604/GU10.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="604" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFJ7QN3hI3aZL-0E1kD3GmelmHnNnaOI1e1xK0yzMbSKg1_OrO7eZT4-31Yl_CGYse3MW57iiwFf4zk0kyMX2_GaQPLDzwIdyFTCQsOA-ecm7VCirR3YupTDUYuTWcon7YrUXlVwW8A/s320/GU10.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GU10</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>GU10 lights</b>: these are spot lights, so I do not recommend them or you will need to install a lot of them to cover all the layout with a light in an uniform way.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-iXMcqlPTFqwkrp8K8y7snvCjdKSe4OJ_beTj4g8_g5RDGKb3wYzjCjFwv_POG5UQbpQUld9_txGD3wnOXy6J1mIhRHPLCIcIZlmexLA7UryWFHVHKZQjsvtiRryitCsWxRsYMGK6w/s626/E27.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="522" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-iXMcqlPTFqwkrp8K8y7snvCjdKSe4OJ_beTj4g8_g5RDGKb3wYzjCjFwv_POG5UQbpQUld9_txGD3wnOXy6J1mIhRHPLCIcIZlmexLA7UryWFHVHKZQjsvtiRryitCsWxRsYMGK6w/s320/E27.png" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E27</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>E27 lights</b>: these bulbs make a more diffuse light, but they should be installed not close to the layout. This is a very good option, but on a long layout you will need many of them and they are not cheap.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq03u1O4-TvPhlCC44R0pEHywgT3ywWbRS_7V0UC88Bns1iVP0zs4W1C0n9Uy92OSGcyPvX07S8rkjfpdTe2YKzhqWxkt0RCvBCOngqmMkC2PFV04Gw2TUzVtfP6jvLcCxts8XrT6opw/s532/LEDSTRIP.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="532" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq03u1O4-TvPhlCC44R0pEHywgT3ywWbRS_7V0UC88Bns1iVP0zs4W1C0n9Uy92OSGcyPvX07S8rkjfpdTe2YKzhqWxkt0RCvBCOngqmMkC2PFV04Gw2TUzVtfP6jvLcCxts8XrT6opw/s320/LEDSTRIP.png" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Led Strip</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Led Strips</b>: this is a cheaper option as you can illuminate a long section in an uniform way. In my case, my layout is composed of modules, so it's narrow but long. I would need many bulbs to illuminate it in a homogeneous way, on the other hand the led strips must be placed quite close to the layout. But I have a shelf at 50cm from the top of the modules all along the layout, so I just had to stick three 5 meters long led strips under the shelf instead of installing a dozen of light bulbs.</p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikua-1QFNZgeuR9i3oCRENvv1ZVW8NrN3lzhvTDGG8QQSaWztaWyGREq18k1xJEbtp3fw34QiKT4DGwe-6pa8nJxepVOjM9_zpJHAb30cquC2DaZyBFIcRUFhJh14CeWh3VQgIIV9M9g/s687/ZIGBEE.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="687" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikua-1QFNZgeuR9i3oCRENvv1ZVW8NrN3lzhvTDGG8QQSaWztaWyGREq18k1xJEbtp3fw34QiKT4DGwe-6pa8nJxepVOjM9_zpJHAb30cquC2DaZyBFIcRUFhJh14CeWh3VQgIIV9M9g/s320/ZIGBEE.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZIGBEE compatible led strip</td></tr></tbody></table><b><br />Any other ZIGBEE compatible lights</b>: Philips HUE lights are awesome by the intensity of the light and the colours, but they are also expensive. So you can use any ZIGBEE compatible light. Just make sure it is specified they are compatible with Philips HUE (check the icon under the image) and support the ZIGBEE protocol. I bought these led strips for my layout in Aliexpress, search for the following description: "Zigbee-minicontrolador RGBCW, 1-5M DC12V 5050 RGB + CCT 90leds/m, Kit de luces de tira LED para ZIGBEE 3,0 HUB hu-e Echo Plus APP"<p></p><p><br /></p><p>So you will have to test and find the best (and cheapest) combination of lights for your layout, in my case I used 3 led strips (5 meters long each one) and one E27 light for a corner that missed more light.</p><p><br /></p><p>Before starting the Rocrail configuration and the weather functionality setup, make sure your light are working with the mobile Philips HUE application in your smartphone. Follow the Philips instructions to pair the lights with the HUE bridge, it's really simple as you only have to press the button on the led strip and the bridge, or introduce the serial number of the bulb in the application.</p><p>Another important thing is to assign a fixed IP address to the bridge. This can be done using the smartphone HUE application as explained here: <a href="https://huetips.com/help/how-to-find-my-bridge-ip-address/">https://huetips.com/help/how-to-find-my-bridge-ip-address/</a><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDj5AvnnVPOQb-SsgYNYJfEvd_34yfrFceH63oYB9PZUYPnTxN3YjNFryVEbbNg6TwOeiKxr6hpeqDTSpMGdP_axThTl_3xtwwlUohd7LiuzrMWbNEVdWbRkLtJABeS1feIpYUWnkETA/s300/CONFIG.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDj5AvnnVPOQb-SsgYNYJfEvd_34yfrFceH63oYB9PZUYPnTxN3YjNFryVEbbNg6TwOeiKxr6hpeqDTSpMGdP_axThTl_3xtwwlUohd7LiuzrMWbNEVdWbRkLtJABeS1feIpYUWnkETA/s16000/CONFIG.png" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Once you have the lights working you have to setup Rocrail, but this will be explained in the following post.<br /><p></p><p><br /></p><br /><br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-29761863384758926342020-11-01T19:06:00.007+01:002020-11-04T00:28:20.294+01:00Kato 3060-3 EF65-500 DCC Install<p>This model is prety much the same than the previous DCC Install published for the Kato 3061-4 EF65-2000, so you can check the<a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2020/10/kato-3061-4-ef65-2000-dcc-install_24.html" target="_blank"> previous post here</a> for more detailed information. It is basically the same locomotive with the same hull and space where to install the decoder, and almost the same light board. I just found one small difference in the capacitor compenent.</p><p><br /></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QKrpvG2eaDCRAjV3UdpxPwxOjh5hrNehzD1HndcQmScoYstlEiUS5T_GPFmRuVq6zzfdZMzVVfx-hCi04lhnMknxpU9Mjp1qodjvvSllFsPJUpRNaRpxgXbMZ1lLfE5NW8B8nhXDgw/s4032/DSC_1228.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QKrpvG2eaDCRAjV3UdpxPwxOjh5hrNehzD1HndcQmScoYstlEiUS5T_GPFmRuVq6zzfdZMzVVfx-hCi04lhnMknxpU9Mjp1qodjvvSllFsPJUpRNaRpxgXbMZ1lLfE5NW8B8nhXDgw/s320/DSC_1228.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgr9KzA9EgxDAUWsNbjFGzsoSvAk5qPEiVEmssXusvkgRlD2eWKMtV4aZl8wqWQxjgmB09-13c3Q5qWaAo_fTl8GmmGlq96jhYAb029A6MJ-r8FbLmwaOs1eWmH4IP85TIGQTj6x51aQ/s4032/DSC_1229.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgr9KzA9EgxDAUWsNbjFGzsoSvAk5qPEiVEmssXusvkgRlD2eWKMtV4aZl8wqWQxjgmB09-13c3Q5qWaAo_fTl8GmmGlq96jhYAb029A6MJ-r8FbLmwaOs1eWmH4IP85TIGQTj6x51aQ/s320/DSC_1229.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can see in the following photo that light board capacitor is so small that is almost imperceptible. This is the only difference I found with the light board of EF65-2000 model:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ILz9gDFj9lcCYeEjY0aU7wDv1_anoiQLbEX5GCSmOT4MLfl4NZNorq1MPyCysYzEz4F3DYS3wM4Wgc0FonbC1ppbRpEf1JbNEH-HcnBwnuhLhyFVMSy_U-cdIJHUnxnO7xD8n5eoTw/s4032/DSC_1231.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ILz9gDFj9lcCYeEjY0aU7wDv1_anoiQLbEX5GCSmOT4MLfl4NZNorq1MPyCysYzEz4F3DYS3wM4Wgc0FonbC1ppbRpEf1JbNEH-HcnBwnuhLhyFVMSy_U-cdIJHUnxnO7xD8n5eoTw/s320/DSC_1231.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Strategy used will be the same, so the previous schema to prepare the light board for a wired decoder is still valid:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLFjHp6c0WBhtIRiNiHTKAljgCo6TzXXQDE36K2ZgllbQ7znfIqLUmAq0e02eKbFqYMwGBxCX0A06QnGiPu6Rp8IC2Bt7xgEUiMqOrH4qqYPA_jfKRF9N-PmwHwKGUvavlvJcIe3ZAA/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="640" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLFjHp6c0WBhtIRiNiHTKAljgCo6TzXXQDE36K2ZgllbQ7znfIqLUmAq0e02eKbFqYMwGBxCX0A06QnGiPu6Rp8IC2Bt7xgEUiMqOrH4qqYPA_jfKRF9N-PmwHwKGUvavlvJcIe3ZAA/w400-h211/image.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board. Capacitor is extremelly small in this board!</li><li>Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)</li><li>Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)</li><li>This time I didn't solder the white wire to point (5) and I soldered it directly to the negative lead of the led light. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.</li><li>For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). You will need to scratch a litle bit the cooper track of the point (8) as the pad is small as the capacitor. The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).</li></ul><div><br /></div><div>Here you can see the decoder already soldered and how to fit it in the hull. The same milling is required like for the EF65-2000 that you can check with more detail in the previous post:</div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfe1Q62yLfuatz0AmZx7cQcbMDGafw2uW0M9zFWuaid8lrTgml5XXNt8dY1AJ2RfvR0hJUainvUzLtPsRGVbs8IyIr-b_syYvn8cuQiacKU8Uh8WCQ-o8F56L8LqXz_gFx6pHEj1DaXQ/s4032/DSC_1236.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfe1Q62yLfuatz0AmZx7cQcbMDGafw2uW0M9zFWuaid8lrTgml5XXNt8dY1AJ2RfvR0hJUainvUzLtPsRGVbs8IyIr-b_syYvn8cuQiacKU8Uh8WCQ-o8F56L8LqXz_gFx6pHEj1DaXQ/s320/DSC_1236.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4iQcganzWtTrsJYpti1EjXCrPvk8ZZLfBFJkuHR9RjbZzggPhqqdUksXlfz_1YrginQzqvWAa2hsFEJIOH2szC_bxzMvBS4mbUyYQRLB9A48dVcMsjZWpKhH0jfO_eYvj8O29lvY1A/s4032/DSC_1237.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4iQcganzWtTrsJYpti1EjXCrPvk8ZZLfBFJkuHR9RjbZzggPhqqdUksXlfz_1YrginQzqvWAa2hsFEJIOH2szC_bxzMvBS4mbUyYQRLB9A48dVcMsjZWpKhH0jfO_eYvj8O29lvY1A/s320/DSC_1237.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO_91DNHVhpnEeobQ0SCvIqWxY31LoAHKpBlj5c2KnHdT8AEIvFXJceZmWFHi1nuNr0Sa9FRchjQeW8Xqv-CKRTIOhjHIGiGmMlbFVvOybG2TX6BWZFq4Fnx21LPtlFZaNM9QDIVs_Q/s4032/DSC_1238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO_91DNHVhpnEeobQ0SCvIqWxY31LoAHKpBlj5c2KnHdT8AEIvFXJceZmWFHi1nuNr0Sa9FRchjQeW8Xqv-CKRTIOhjHIGiGmMlbFVvOybG2TX6BWZFq4Fnx21LPtlFZaNM9QDIVs_Q/s320/DSC_1238.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCJC5lfGR-ABIdpD3KQY6zs9VIyjiRlykSCoUjo-Eg9p4jDWlA2U7wEfPe6U8VT3guIzn0NdFCvpLmNyIsJNrOkyhrrksAzS0vdRVoCRK39AH9BMwoTRuFTR3xpoBaQ-N8eMzc4cNqg/s4032/DSC_1240.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCJC5lfGR-ABIdpD3KQY6zs9VIyjiRlykSCoUjo-Eg9p4jDWlA2U7wEfPe6U8VT3guIzn0NdFCvpLmNyIsJNrOkyhrrksAzS0vdRVoCRK39AH9BMwoTRuFTR3xpoBaQ-N8eMzc4cNqg/w400-h225/DSC_1240.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> I hope that you found this useful!<p></p><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitahH7MAVAmWDwdOq4qgaveJypHh71oohOQCrFBkA3OsGM5OugirxsMi-AKhXYYI5k46R5WVkJNK7ODdUfCcUjVt1ORyLcLttXfrAXue7iu6h0ZpypUt28nM3zwYHqq5CY9huEij2smQ/s1620/DSC_4215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitahH7MAVAmWDwdOq4qgaveJypHh71oohOQCrFBkA3OsGM5OugirxsMi-AKhXYYI5k46R5WVkJNK7ODdUfCcUjVt1ORyLcLttXfrAXue7iu6h0ZpypUt28nM3zwYHqq5CY9huEij2smQ/s320/DSC_4215.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBTzptgyIyR9qB8QnPzAcWQHwQCYSs7l_Kn9QCNxg48BH81ujD6oNgzGAVVC3Yk612pi5rTlwGdDK00NaKZwcxuuLy-NzDc5lWz3ENrYAjzuZrHY3toK6yGXzxkrgJ6AmeH_VOQ-FvA/s1620/DSC_4223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBTzptgyIyR9qB8QnPzAcWQHwQCYSs7l_Kn9QCNxg48BH81ujD6oNgzGAVVC3Yk612pi5rTlwGdDK00NaKZwcxuuLy-NzDc5lWz3ENrYAjzuZrHY3toK6yGXzxkrgJ6AmeH_VOQ-FvA/s320/DSC_4223.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9h6CVDhue28DcjbPNpj6BbMmHwrmjkWLEj2eqgXKnjochgiHVBbw-a5PD9A-pWmAK18hvH2r_8CUBLw4ZJt6UQg9ETgrphhuoBEgx-WVnzuo3VNWl9r0G3s8Kq6_Vw4D4rYPaZ3scg/s1620/DSC_4221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9h6CVDhue28DcjbPNpj6BbMmHwrmjkWLEj2eqgXKnjochgiHVBbw-a5PD9A-pWmAK18hvH2r_8CUBLw4ZJt6UQg9ETgrphhuoBEgx-WVnzuo3VNWl9r0G3s8Kq6_Vw4D4rYPaZ3scg/s320/DSC_4221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VrqcTfwxpNM" width="320" youtube-src-id="VrqcTfwxpNM"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-74765646309037477702020-10-24T01:25:00.007+02:002020-11-01T19:00:42.504+01:00Kato 3061-4 EF65 2000 DCC Install<p><br /></p><p>This locomotive has been in a shelf for a long time because I felt it quite difficult to install in a first inspection. It seems not to have enough space for a decoder, and the light board is not one of those I am used to install. But finally I found a workaround that worked prety well for me. You will see it takes some time to install, but it's not difficult.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCK1HPc5EPAyPgdAx60U5i9YB3oAjclSBy7D0amQW0COsimcaQR75vHWNJzHbQVLtXDrHbxDY24aZpKz4Klsyxo-kBk-ZPlsLt_jSE8r0ot3fdViV5A6yepCnaNNF8d3RY0zxAh-Iw4w/s1573/DSC_1166.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1057" data-original-width="1573" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCK1HPc5EPAyPgdAx60U5i9YB3oAjclSBy7D0amQW0COsimcaQR75vHWNJzHbQVLtXDrHbxDY24aZpKz4Klsyxo-kBk-ZPlsLt_jSE8r0ot3fdViV5A6yepCnaNNF8d3RY0zxAh-Iw4w/w400-h269/DSC_1166.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>First tricky part is to find a place for decoder. The best place I found is under the roof. You can un-clip the roof from the body and also un-clip from this roof the two pieces in the middle. Under the biggest piece there is place enough for a small decoder (ZIMO MX616R Nano in my case) with the help of some drilling:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHEtUCKB3qNEVKr3LgpRqVzN-LBKos7OaZSUZPPn2kHsSRwbTiP9YFyobjHmX08Jnw4mhOksUYLWe25ef5mxKl_3h_CWbsucIFP9IgUmPFKidPDgVNBHB37CtmRojN-lEUvR-slXP8CA/s4032/DSC_1169.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHEtUCKB3qNEVKr3LgpRqVzN-LBKos7OaZSUZPPn2kHsSRwbTiP9YFyobjHmX08Jnw4mhOksUYLWe25ef5mxKl_3h_CWbsucIFP9IgUmPFKidPDgVNBHB37CtmRojN-lEUvR-slXP8CA/w400-h225/DSC_1169.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><br /></p><p>You can see here how the decoder now fits and shell can be closed:</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MBBMAyuVBy2HaPnfri5pc3hxONpfK-NVNekNN5y-e-i2qt9MlBle6-KMJodP7J_YlnHIC4NnNHCJPDcr3QhdqDxj_2hV5JfeQOwkfkWy4TZc2nU7Z8BI9loexaIa8frS9li68F-FIQ/s4032/DSC_1209.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MBBMAyuVBy2HaPnfri5pc3hxONpfK-NVNekNN5y-e-i2qt9MlBle6-KMJodP7J_YlnHIC4NnNHCJPDcr3QhdqDxj_2hV5JfeQOwkfkWy4TZc2nU7Z8BI9loexaIa8frS9li68F-FIQ/w400-h225/DSC_1209.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>Now that I found the place, let's go for the tricky part which is always the light board. My basic strategy is always:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Remove capacitors</li><li>Isolate the motor contacts</li><li>Reroute the positive lead of the lights to the existing resistor, which is feeded from the track current</li><li>Isolate the negative lead of the lights to connect here the white and yellow wires from the decoder</li></ul><p></p><p>One easy tip to find the positive and negative side of leds is to use a multimeter. Select the continuity checking position (that one that beeps when there is continuity). When you put the red tip in the positive side and the black tip in the negative side the led will glow, and there is no danger to blow the led.</p><p><br /></p><p>I made the following diagram:</p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfT52CIAYGMkn4eNPbkypucNu9ahLe1LBmcYN6P9q8TQLyUXLTF-smzGc_1GWfIDrmPb76cjHP80A0hvZIVRonn_fOYFtf-iZhYEublsWpZoCtLpU44zQrGRg3UXGeHRK-zK2LTOmCw/s1371/PLACA.png" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1371" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfT52CIAYGMkn4eNPbkypucNu9ahLe1LBmcYN6P9q8TQLyUXLTF-smzGc_1GWfIDrmPb76cjHP80A0hvZIVRonn_fOYFtf-iZhYEublsWpZoCtLpU44zQrGRg3UXGeHRK-zK2LTOmCw/w640-h338/PLACA.png" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board.</li><li>Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)</li><li>Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)</li><li>Point (5) is connected to the negative side of the right led and here I will solder the white wire. You can directly solder it to the negative side of the led if you prefer. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.</li><li>For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).</li></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><p></p><p>Here you can see the board ready to solder the decoder:</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0q7lXsoInSISkpNS6VLsKsiAejomrStYB6lN4GwQJN8v2Zg0xi365p_7269_8D6C8qkr03TvlrQ6y_JDbjXRp_I9dwA4Qrf3CotPGx6gKZ-6d9zJptAtjmnuH4LazabwVtCtVvIw6Q/s4032/DSC_1203.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0q7lXsoInSISkpNS6VLsKsiAejomrStYB6lN4GwQJN8v2Zg0xi365p_7269_8D6C8qkr03TvlrQ6y_JDbjXRp_I9dwA4Qrf3CotPGx6gKZ-6d9zJptAtjmnuH4LazabwVtCtVvIw6Q/w400-h225/DSC_1203.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUGvA57TVoqs5SbrvqgXIUnq7DG0lzRDijWdnIULNcbqhtxLR-sXodQ0LAxSg_K64Bs3ne4uA0PCpsu2Yh7PGfmcVoHpfRq8lS8Lzfz12rLRu7OQhK5xq64RbKXlNy3EPQ24EgRJ4gQ/s4032/DSC_1206.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUGvA57TVoqs5SbrvqgXIUnq7DG0lzRDijWdnIULNcbqhtxLR-sXodQ0LAxSg_K64Bs3ne4uA0PCpsu2Yh7PGfmcVoHpfRq8lS8Lzfz12rLRu7OQhK5xq64RbKXlNy3EPQ24EgRJ4gQ/w400-h225/DSC_1206.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>And finally, mount the body taking care to retoure the wires properly, then the roof y finally the top parts of the roof:</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uSRY60jlSNtKG9QGMq6Cd3JoB-APsPYEWv6aWlC28VYrb6OhS0GMqvdMp0VrH2tQuFcz2ua_Z3zaaH_fZbziNDV_CmKlivQPI5a-urnQ1grynPnf_7uxepz3nIjVVUK8ZOa-S4Pnjw/s4032/DSC_1207.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uSRY60jlSNtKG9QGMq6Cd3JoB-APsPYEWv6aWlC28VYrb6OhS0GMqvdMp0VrH2tQuFcz2ua_Z3zaaH_fZbziNDV_CmKlivQPI5a-urnQ1grynPnf_7uxepz3nIjVVUK8ZOa-S4Pnjw/s320/DSC_1207.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqa2yZJe8AkLDEfrYn8lz03VTjMtRu0GJghb16FL5ymr6sadvB4bAF_4CG3jj42XLRNouifeOShv7BKNCzs2N4n0TGA1iFGmHF-_YIUTQbnlHcQiZXiiueAsDE2m_dzRpAmjdj57vP4A/s4032/DSC_1209.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqa2yZJe8AkLDEfrYn8lz03VTjMtRu0GJghb16FL5ymr6sadvB4bAF_4CG3jj42XLRNouifeOShv7BKNCzs2N4n0TGA1iFGmHF-_YIUTQbnlHcQiZXiiueAsDE2m_dzRpAmjdj57vP4A/s320/DSC_1209.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEino2VUREJXw_7tHso2p8G5qg5db42WTew0-Tdpj4NPhTppqycsBEh6FwT_atsuiFENthHqhinffbEEuHscIJ6GY_aUFaL6Z58ce-xCqqh8ldgELe_WnRkfCEgv-MGp3DLbzkR9cc9Mkw/s4032/DSC_1212.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEino2VUREJXw_7tHso2p8G5qg5db42WTew0-Tdpj4NPhTppqycsBEh6FwT_atsuiFENthHqhinffbEEuHscIJ6GY_aUFaL6Z58ce-xCqqh8ldgELe_WnRkfCEgv-MGp3DLbzkR9cc9Mkw/s320/DSC_1212.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>That's all, I hope that you found this useful!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C-xek9a1RmA" width="320" youtube-src-id="C-xek9a1RmA"></iframe></div><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2B-TYbYxJnOZerUv3KE_lu9FGXnaTQnbhRFNSIVBXn8ZJkHP7-fu2Dassoo10CMwNVxvDmiDhhSoGkGIiow2jXhPfTSa1RHZfZmaaQRudz3RkVNbEd_e5JgyrZh-eTFob-Wru6V8wiA/s4032/DSC_1214.JPG" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2B-TYbYxJnOZerUv3KE_lu9FGXnaTQnbhRFNSIVBXn8ZJkHP7-fu2Dassoo10CMwNVxvDmiDhhSoGkGIiow2jXhPfTSa1RHZfZmaaQRudz3RkVNbEd_e5JgyrZh-eTFob-Wru6V8wiA/w640-h360/DSC_1214.JPG" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-54221562881430222472020-08-09T02:14:00.009+02:002020-08-09T02:27:07.943+02:00Battle of Hoth module<p>Another of my passions, apart from model railroading, is mounting and painting plastic kits. I especially like those old Star Wars plastic kits that were sold as merchandising at the same time that movies were released. I collect all MPC and AMT/ERTL kits sold during the eighties and nineties and when I feel I need a rest from trains, I use to take one of the pending boxes I have and I build the model.</p><p><br /></p><p>I was in total lack of inspiration to decorate an end loop for my modular layout after I did the "Rice fields" and "Mine" modules, so I decided to make a break and mount the following kit about the Battle of Hoth:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimpOVdRYSwcBl4f7kTN-rbU8TNbAj9IZwaaR9mWv7lzT3rdYQy7-EdwLTSKMtXSvGlbiPVQyO4tlL5DiwS5W68jyRL1_m0pL87fYLMaJVkAHbsbNw5dD7U4U-U9okPTYQtfxuH9sFnYA/s674/hothbox.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="674" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimpOVdRYSwcBl4f7kTN-rbU8TNbAj9IZwaaR9mWv7lzT3rdYQy7-EdwLTSKMtXSvGlbiPVQyO4tlL5DiwS5W68jyRL1_m0pL87fYLMaJVkAHbsbNw5dD7U4U-U9okPTYQtfxuH9sFnYA/w512-h351/hothbox.png" width="512" /></a></div><p>When I opened the box I realized all figures were really small, they could match with our N scale train models. Searched in internet, and this is a 1:156 scale kit. So... why not to mount this diorama in my loop?</p><p>These are all the pieces in this kit, very easy to assemble as most of them are complete and you only need to cut them from the blister:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxUMQNOpi72CyQXRD_Ph6V2zFRF_RzIAH82JRsm-4xaKCkCugnQRYaELss1nk_xmCvjQrhnnDxvWWLNkeYdzq3qxWnTAF03TPmigXB0We5g9QJzTKfAAWxJhTK1sBF8uir-_rGNzdimw/s3840/DSC_3997.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxUMQNOpi72CyQXRD_Ph6V2zFRF_RzIAH82JRsm-4xaKCkCugnQRYaELss1nk_xmCvjQrhnnDxvWWLNkeYdzq3qxWnTAF03TPmigXB0We5g9QJzTKfAAWxJhTK1sBF8uir-_rGNzdimw/s640/DSC_3997.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The most time consuming task was to paint each figure:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJoiZ1NAy_IAfcHx_wjm5jcMRU-ScScbsZRvjqH3BQsT9_rPlKt4eOCU2nmzk4FaCjVmQNu3ICwp-z-KiNm4R5AAupFWt5skPavP0Y3fe7lTeavaq1vRaqTG1fAuTKkTjQsanwJpUfUA/s3840/DSC_4003.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJoiZ1NAy_IAfcHx_wjm5jcMRU-ScScbsZRvjqH3BQsT9_rPlKt4eOCU2nmzk4FaCjVmQNu3ICwp-z-KiNm4R5AAupFWt5skPavP0Y3fe7lTeavaq1vRaqTG1fAuTKkTjQsanwJpUfUA/s640/DSC_4003.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySjDSicWlDSkEXjs2DNL-rvMlSE9kmcG6ZlGpYkq_flFi8CE7LQ1r6SuuTVjt0P7Voe5w79wKl96cz6v3HjlhKfaNW-1_29suwYvr4YAXVjESZhhj3VO33VUh-xbi0KNbWWciTj0edQ/s3840/DSC_4010.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySjDSicWlDSkEXjs2DNL-rvMlSE9kmcG6ZlGpYkq_flFi8CE7LQ1r6SuuTVjt0P7Voe5w79wKl96cz6v3HjlhKfaNW-1_29suwYvr4YAXVjESZhhj3VO33VUh-xbi0KNbWWciTj0edQ/s640/DSC_4010.JPG" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>I was missing some important parts to be represented in the diorama, but thanks to thingiverse.com and the designs made by other people I 3D printed the following pieces:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Shield Generator: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1174989">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1174989</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Millenary Falcon: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1559425">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1559425</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Ion Canon: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2173641">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2173641</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Tunnel portal and Echo base entrance: designed by my own</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiULNc-mBPYp_dJukRjtsPvdffLoDQOL7SyvmiDWKmJ2cGIQOhKOxclMIByN5jMwBYa_uAvg7xtKS_Sex5A3edL9T5k4ZTXPm4rrbks7nNb5_S1jHNJJti_CgHga41R7t9wxHtY0xQEVA/s3840/DSC_4127.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiULNc-mBPYp_dJukRjtsPvdffLoDQOL7SyvmiDWKmJ2cGIQOhKOxclMIByN5jMwBYa_uAvg7xtKS_Sex5A3edL9T5k4ZTXPm4rrbks7nNb5_S1jHNJJti_CgHga41R7t9wxHtY0xQEVA/w230-h410/DSC_4127.JPG" width="230" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5XkwDJJEX2A2HBZGj7ibeA87SQ8qoXWUW0XAWIxCHTbXjIEt4Osg4j-epm6XaNlp1LtFrpxi8Dda1nSr22uI9SwbaZupaD1M9boXf_A1jEtefxVghz9KZQq5-bzBd_DEqTdNcX8AeQ/s3840/DSC_4138.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5XkwDJJEX2A2HBZGj7ibeA87SQ8qoXWUW0XAWIxCHTbXjIEt4Osg4j-epm6XaNlp1LtFrpxi8Dda1nSr22uI9SwbaZupaD1M9boXf_A1jEtefxVghz9KZQq5-bzBd_DEqTdNcX8AeQ/w230-h410/DSC_4138.JPG" width="230" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBu1rdnE10Z85ZnXYVSwYcef3QkBWD2M9vWtrGrHXflU3ncz35aTo63VzdZYn1_KNLqOyi9q0nDjcWmdS1GIrjliWAqh0eP32XKtqXibq6Z7P620YGU1aFp071QAjC9z-uX56GK7TVg/s3840/DSC_4564.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBu1rdnE10Z85ZnXYVSwYcef3QkBWD2M9vWtrGrHXflU3ncz35aTo63VzdZYn1_KNLqOyi9q0nDjcWmdS1GIrjliWAqh0eP32XKtqXibq6Z7P620YGU1aFp071QAjC9z-uX56GK7TVg/w410-h230/DSC_4564.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqxe4Knp4Gg65Dk8faSZxgANGxvCgVyNIAlq1XTww5boutuXNvPd50bxUKk8UQgSgyNiri6g3KW9v7q_w64LZMPcnkyXypcKJdVX54UVYEWMvX5X8fo0umDX_1x82RI7pUFkuPCfvViQ/s3840/DSC_4538.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqxe4Knp4Gg65Dk8faSZxgANGxvCgVyNIAlq1XTww5boutuXNvPd50bxUKk8UQgSgyNiri6g3KW9v7q_w64LZMPcnkyXypcKJdVX54UVYEWMvX5X8fo0umDX_1x82RI7pUFkuPCfvViQ/w410-h230/DSC_4538.JPG" width="410" /></a></p><p>Then I started building the "Echo base" as a kind of box, including illumination, RGB leds which allow me to make some nice special effects, and the Millenium Falcon, X-Wing and a couple of Snow Speeders:</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XKHY6n9-TsMpPx7qWmpwYn97Phh44sEmWL2wuNTbaA3fSlufEKSuBzisW3WMz24H4TomeGklEdhYb8NXpOq-fCOgYHPxDjIBiC7Ta7jw_kpsDdQ4SR4eIbRCP7N7CmAT8txL6bdFxw/s3840/DSC_4539.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XKHY6n9-TsMpPx7qWmpwYn97Phh44sEmWL2wuNTbaA3fSlufEKSuBzisW3WMz24H4TomeGklEdhYb8NXpOq-fCOgYHPxDjIBiC7Ta7jw_kpsDdQ4SR4eIbRCP7N7CmAT8txL6bdFxw/w410-h230/DSC_4539.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8OOBWL8VPtX6oOZ3PtHWCKpCodwM5LOAosF3Hv5SBmN4lLEvN0f17SlL4lQ-mLcOhQ79f4-T18_BbcnYWSW7TlJXsfMGvogtCnIJWZBSNiax4EKcsysBZTHoMM2oVDZtiH9W_-1R2g/s3840/DSC_4545.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8OOBWL8VPtX6oOZ3PtHWCKpCodwM5LOAosF3Hv5SBmN4lLEvN0f17SlL4lQ-mLcOhQ79f4-T18_BbcnYWSW7TlJXsfMGvogtCnIJWZBSNiax4EKcsysBZTHoMM2oVDZtiH9W_-1R2g/w410-h230/DSC_4545.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><p>And started planning the disposition of all elements:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5Sr1yih-oYkAeggfQcoNeJxDqBiuntaYSLKiWJHtIIqum4KcpE5cdkLSC4dB7Ddiu5e3R9IidRP_1R9vWY0z1KjBB2QUnCac4If8KHUvwIpoWtDVyvQ7cNFIxJHk2NNxm6o6TWxdXA/s3840/DSC_4547.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5Sr1yih-oYkAeggfQcoNeJxDqBiuntaYSLKiWJHtIIqum4KcpE5cdkLSC4dB7Ddiu5e3R9IidRP_1R9vWY0z1KjBB2QUnCac4If8KHUvwIpoWtDVyvQ7cNFIxJHk2NNxm6o6TWxdXA/w410-h230/DSC_4547.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Mountains reliefs were created using cardboard strips and hot glue, and all covered with plaster cloth. To make the rock walls you can put plaster and, while it is still soft, press with a crumpled aluminum fold:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafZXbhmI94PshRuU1R1AXqcwlgSgQKLgIadur70f3VjNrpTVPAHiDnGF1kEihRmmLQJDtQ8VibZhRrAOJvl9mAr5HNAw7lY_zMVqkWX2MZfHcZSyIjcVBug4ZKl6pzUKcdBRbZL3b1w/s3840/DSC_4582.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafZXbhmI94PshRuU1R1AXqcwlgSgQKLgIadur70f3VjNrpTVPAHiDnGF1kEihRmmLQJDtQ8VibZhRrAOJvl9mAr5HNAw7lY_zMVqkWX2MZfHcZSyIjcVBug4ZKl6pzUKcdBRbZL3b1w/w410-h230/DSC_4582.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbCZPMHnJTOWOYmZUYmxUjpVWC5W8e-qEi0FVM3FK7RZ1OhrpLC3dKK5_5Pd9z_K0f4dTEvql_fvnWisUoMZJMSY6BQS5nlYdfbHRQQtq0Qm15uREmN1CXcMtm5OKhc85eJqh7RRTKg/s3840/DSC_4640.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbCZPMHnJTOWOYmZUYmxUjpVWC5W8e-qEi0FVM3FK7RZ1OhrpLC3dKK5_5Pd9z_K0f4dTEvql_fvnWisUoMZJMSY6BQS5nlYdfbHRQQtq0Qm15uREmN1CXcMtm5OKhc85eJqh7RRTKg/w410-h230/DSC_4640.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I wanted this module to be interactive and very visual, so I installed red micro leds in the tip of the AT-AT Walker heads and a green one in the tip of the Ion Cannon:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikK3vTwBDA9O5DaZ_hzVVE3dOWvsGaNZNDlWesCEeIthMHCWLulRH8ZricNgVkkjjI6pwq3BGV42MUqRhZ3z2vY_ieOT7Jd770jH7jTGUXYzXYDqhZDmopMgbf9n5dKQdJIMBPkpSP7Q/s3840/DSC_4548.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikK3vTwBDA9O5DaZ_hzVVE3dOWvsGaNZNDlWesCEeIthMHCWLulRH8ZricNgVkkjjI6pwq3BGV42MUqRhZ3z2vY_ieOT7Jd770jH7jTGUXYzXYDqhZDmopMgbf9n5dKQdJIMBPkpSP7Q/w410-h230/DSC_4548.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQaoDZTp6dr-GawQmNiooGsUuD4qphIy6esLSt8iI18oXc3dmStt5tdZlXgZX6rr8GfdDCUi9IGlMH5s4ZahwIp8QAtfbA46ZDRWtVZWcaRNvCzNWWRh5mOO-urBUv4W4Ya5XFJoMebQ/s522/ion.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="522" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQaoDZTp6dr-GawQmNiooGsUuD4qphIy6esLSt8iI18oXc3dmStt5tdZlXgZX6rr8GfdDCUi9IGlMH5s4ZahwIp8QAtfbA46ZDRWtVZWcaRNvCzNWWRh5mOO-urBUv4W4Ya5XFJoMebQ/w334-h319/ion.png" width="334" /></a><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I also tried for the first time to simulate explosions, fire and smoke following this guide: </span><a href="https://spikeybits.com/2014/10/hobby-how-to-make-explosions-smoke.html">https://spikeybits.com/2014/10/hobby-how-to-make-explosions-smoke.html</a></p><p style="text-align: left;">Basically you need filling/stuffing material, normally used for stuffing for soft toys. Craft shops have this, but I bought a pillow in a poundshop which was filled of this material. To shape these fibers I made first a structure with chicken-wire. After painting it with black, yellow, orange and red paint insert a tea candle light. These tea candles are available in ebay and aliexpress and they are very cheap. The final result surprised me:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmE_VW4hSCH6nxDBERMb81s6B-gjJYgapMGwOu64YIOhYSmC_2Um99n_u6MLhmGcb-T2fBtPvWsLRakgMt_Jjvcq5Bb7Nt5X71C5qbzXBFGVp8E1rzOLg73b4mxLy5QGvDfUNVhR3TA/s2992/DSC_2397.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2992" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmE_VW4hSCH6nxDBERMb81s6B-gjJYgapMGwOu64YIOhYSmC_2Um99n_u6MLhmGcb-T2fBtPvWsLRakgMt_Jjvcq5Bb7Nt5X71C5qbzXBFGVp8E1rzOLg73b4mxLy5QGvDfUNVhR3TA/w410-h274/DSC_2397.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZglVPmdX8o2vU-N6N-RE61sje92aAyGz5mMmSNIZB5AoN2RCcZBDcVvaiBkPxPPHTARKnnM-Oho72BZDM8u493gUAEYvZ6nafNUsf77fwY07hoF7dEXUFI3OkCILDwgHSBs9Q7W_Q7A/s5333/DSC_0022.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="5333" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZglVPmdX8o2vU-N6N-RE61sje92aAyGz5mMmSNIZB5AoN2RCcZBDcVvaiBkPxPPHTARKnnM-Oho72BZDM8u493gUAEYvZ6nafNUsf77fwY07hoF7dEXUFI3OkCILDwgHSBs9Q7W_Q7A/w410-h230/DSC_0022.JPG" width="410" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With everything in place, I covered the whole layout with Woodland Scenics Flex Paste together with </span>Soft Flake Snow. You can check this video demonstrating the application of these products:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yWKuKOd7Npw" width="320" youtube-src-id="yWKuKOd7Npw"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I installed an Arduino UNO and connected all lights plus a sound shield to it, and programmed everything to reproduce short scenes of the Battle of Hoth when a train passes or you move closer your hand to the front of the module like "using the force". Sorry because this video was recorded when the module was not finished yet:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy8swAQDgUR8qX03SG7_Q27X8bZHy9TjKiFfluDWHLVo2YgB1yksI7Rcy6ZPrY08wFkyfLPJDbmFJ1tB8SI' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you have some photos of the finished module:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNsoGpryYgmg8l1v88isNSheqj75vp3X4yIeEcRWeo_rep5iFOG6TLfWcpysxHZ1Z_rpuVfFYlp9X0zHnJXoHI_A2Lz9O-DgVz4nWalNddnvB_V2dgbOr-rcjYFKeaPUxeAFbLifXhhQ/s4496/DSC_3838.JPG" style="display: block; 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This module is inspired in the old great Yûbari coal mine exploited by <a href="https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E4%B8%89%E8%8F%B1%E3%83%9E%E3%83%86%E3%83%AA%E3%82%A2%E3%83%AB" target="_blank">Mitsubishi Mining</a>. <a href="https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%A4%95%E5%BC%B5%E5%B8%82" target="_blank">Yûbari </a>is nowadays a city in Sorachi prefecture, Hokkaidô. It started working in 1929, producing 900.000 tons of excellent coal during its best years, and after exploiting different zones around the river Yûbari finally closed in 1990 as it couldn't compete against low cost imported coal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mitsubishi Minami-Yubari Coal Mine Precipitator. Source: <a href="https://ysnowy.exblog.jp/27696734/">https://ysnowy.exblog.jp/27696734/</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mitsubishi Oyubari coal mine postcard / 1940, issued by Mitsubishi Oyubari Mining Works</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://www.dagashi.org/tro/yuubari1.html">http://www.dagashi.org/tro/yuubari1.html</a></td></tr>
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This decoration was planned for an end loop of the modular layout of 70cm x 105cm. I designed it to have a minimum curve radius of 282 mm to allow shinkansens and long trains to pass and having a small yard to park some locomotive. One of the tracks of the yard is also a programming track.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HlXbmpnZ1hWYlFrUKwygyxDkOrHK6VD7agrtSgJfEDLgPP9Leb_VBr8hxwJxushqdjVonsENk08Y_qRknlhPP204LdicwQUMTONRGB2nrvsL73UVfqd7ExHFQ06D29BEJNQfCFJ7tg/s3840/DSC_3519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HlXbmpnZ1hWYlFrUKwygyxDkOrHK6VD7agrtSgJfEDLgPP9Leb_VBr8hxwJxushqdjVonsENk08Y_qRknlhPP204LdicwQUMTONRGB2nrvsL73UVfqd7ExHFQ06D29BEJNQfCFJ7tg/s320/DSC_3519.JPG" /></a></div>
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In the electronics of this module it was also included a loop controller to invert the current when a train is completely inside the loop track.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6GK30zCBR3m4jzr93osq-9NCnVlLyuzFM6q1YrgqyKC2ARimy9GdRuxfztgtkIQYEPrL13eRpvS8LmVK7Fs2-GsedQFvHfEPCltrZJWvwmNMW_vUWgTJZZ30VehUwcnLURmjvoylgg/s3840/DSC_3527.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6GK30zCBR3m4jzr93osq-9NCnVlLyuzFM6q1YrgqyKC2ARimy9GdRuxfztgtkIQYEPrL13eRpvS8LmVK7Fs2-GsedQFvHfEPCltrZJWvwmNMW_vUWgTJZZ30VehUwcnLURmjvoylgg/s320/DSC_3527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used my BQ Witbox 3D printer to print for the first time some original details for this module, like track buffers and tunnel portals:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTas0cRM9mdO5ueoV_3Q4gYSrV69HygDcZqO9edQApknSVoxLgCdI-6Vf1OmSnLjlRgUNdxJSbNnksj4L-1FdYQXFszgZ4aIpD6ElFwjuI7k7fud7nsz2Bns6pHWcAWMB-i8qgZOEBzA/s3840/DSC_3705.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTas0cRM9mdO5ueoV_3Q4gYSrV69HygDcZqO9edQApknSVoxLgCdI-6Vf1OmSnLjlRgUNdxJSbNnksj4L-1FdYQXFszgZ4aIpD6ElFwjuI7k7fud7nsz2Bns6pHWcAWMB-i8qgZOEBzA/s320/DSC_3705.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8R5GJs3jhGgOGko7zbxana-LDmViOSNiSqjNS-0WbE6iKfUHqMg-w4DXQwhS9sdRbJ7qMCai0KOaLRrApRlMzmODzl-2L36o8IeXOrf2W2Pep7JuiZ4RE1BvJWaL5X8FS2GJoZKz-8A/s3840/DSC_3710.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8R5GJs3jhGgOGko7zbxana-LDmViOSNiSqjNS-0WbE6iKfUHqMg-w4DXQwhS9sdRbJ7qMCai0KOaLRrApRlMzmODzl-2L36o8IeXOrf2W2Pep7JuiZ4RE1BvJWaL5X8FS2GJoZKz-8A/s320/DSC_3710.JPG" /></a></div>
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After laying the track I made the mountains volumes mounting a wooden platform and using cardbox strips. Then it was all covered with plaster casts and added some rocks created with plaster and the Woodland Scenic rock molds:</div>
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To blender the rocks with the environment I applied fresh plaster and pressed it with aluminium fold while it was still soft. Stones were painted with Woodland Scenics rock paints and following the "<a href="https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/Tip4" target="_blank">leopard spot</a>" technique that you can check in Woodland's web page:</div>
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Next step was to paint with acrylics those places to be covered with earth and vegetation and cover with earth colour, gray and black grout (that type of mortar used to fill the space between floor tiles) each zone of the layout:</div>
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Tracks under the coal mine building are completely fake as the geometry didn't allow me to add switches for that, but it was also my intention to simulate an abandoned coal mine with abandoned tracks as it really happened with the Oyûbari line used to transport the coal by train.</div>
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I bought a flexible Z scale track and some Z scale coal wagons to simulate the mine carts. The main coal building was a <a href="https://www.faller.de/de/de/Produkte/Spurweiten/N-Programm/Handel-Gewerbe-Industrie/Handel-Gewerbe/Alte-Kohlenmine-sid15153.html" target="_blank">Faller 222205 "old mine" kit</a>:</div>
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Last step was to add some illumination and details here and there:</div>
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I hope you liked it!</div>
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Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-39909940127059065182020-07-19T19:02:00.007+02:002020-07-21T15:57:25.690+02:00Module "Rice Fields"In the middle of 2016 I decided to stop building my ambitious L shaped layout and try to complete a small module which I called "Rice Fields".<br />
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Building a layout is an exhausting work, it lasts for years and you can never see it completed. Each phase is tiring long in time. I spent one year making the perfect plan for the space I had, trying to fit as much tracks as possible. Then I needed another year just for the woodwork. Same time just to lay tracks... and you are forced to finish a phase to be to enjoy the next one.<br />
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I was able to complete the module in a couple of months and a short time after I completely disassembled the layout to focus my time just on building modules. It is much more satisfying to complete a job in a short time and to be able to work repeatedly in the different type of works you realize in this hobby (woodwork, electricity, tracks, decoration, electronics, ...).<br />
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About this first module, I was inspired by a photo I took in 2015 when travelling by train through Ôu Main Line from Aomori to Hirosaki at this point:<br />
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I was very surprised to see a graveyard between the rice fields, so I tried to reproduce this rural ambient in the module. There were also magnificent views of Mount Iwaki behind the rice fields:<br />
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I started with a standard two track straight module:<br />
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After laying and ballasting the tracks I used a 1mm PVC foam sheet to make the slopes and relief of the rice fields and the places to fit some Tomix farm houses:</div>
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I covered everything with earth colour grout, that type of mortar used to fill the space between floor tiles. On top of the grout I added static grass, and painted the bottom of the flooded rice fields. Water was simulated with a two component resin, the same used in jewelry and easy to find in hobby stores. </div>
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I wanted to add more detail with a small freight platform. To illuminate the shelter I used a cooper strip and soldered SMD warm white leds:</div>
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Some more illumination, like street lamps:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MT-cvWZlHAn9x-14yMnbzEO4SNpbGZ9b3aGhRU9zJ70NHL-JyMIBcWHhTlm17iUBljijqmRtVljQP10qLGRcU3J_f62XFyWduicGX5Q-UM_VZpgbeVE0BW2a9bdyaJHf-5AQVRS4jA/s1600/DSC_3798.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MT-cvWZlHAn9x-14yMnbzEO4SNpbGZ9b3aGhRU9zJ70NHL-JyMIBcWHhTlm17iUBljijqmRtVljQP10qLGRcU3J_f62XFyWduicGX5Q-UM_VZpgbeVE0BW2a9bdyaJHf-5AQVRS4jA/s320/DSC_3798.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSgXUhQz8pscAVvElaY3x9rTRYQmC-4yeMRM8eSzh_Sihcq46l745kdkBPPsF09jgPAbIWwtQKvnfif4g1WZX_fZasrXJPJjjU7ym_CwahWRlzsZYlsxoEl5lfb6kGEVerluj3gA_mQ/s3840/DSC_3800.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSgXUhQz8pscAVvElaY3x9rTRYQmC-4yeMRM8eSzh_Sihcq46l745kdkBPPsF09jgPAbIWwtQKvnfif4g1WZX_fZasrXJPJjjU7ym_CwahWRlzsZYlsxoEl5lfb6kGEVerluj3gA_mQ/s320/DSC_3800.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There was no Toori in the original photo, but I wanted to try the possibilities of a 3D printer and I liked it:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Al4e1FxEPDYW9xSGgDjpuyCufhyGMgc_7wlJxWgq8rzcFarJOF-em9y5CV22hQF72mhpAWVVpRTZkOF_1TNrI8uLlV4IjlZqjBzkd7YWBJlNS1M4_okriWYLbVCkin8dfILJOhuMOA/s1600/DSC_3820.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Al4e1FxEPDYW9xSGgDjpuyCufhyGMgc_7wlJxWgq8rzcFarJOF-em9y5CV22hQF72mhpAWVVpRTZkOF_1TNrI8uLlV4IjlZqjBzkd7YWBJlNS1M4_okriWYLbVCkin8dfILJOhuMOA/s320/DSC_3820.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And finally just small details as farmers, some tractors and different crops:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfMa0yFESZQsiCLBReOVQz16nhWHqwLvRYbcUMSbWyLx7IHiwvSKQ7te3lfYIPqwC1Mpp_fC3kZHdDMIwQ4PYTN67-jA3Yxtt3E1xrQAcZ053PP67_AmCv1FwhojVb1QrGmOb9S5k2g/s1600/DSC_0876.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfMa0yFESZQsiCLBReOVQz16nhWHqwLvRYbcUMSbWyLx7IHiwvSKQ7te3lfYIPqwC1Mpp_fC3kZHdDMIwQ4PYTN67-jA3Yxtt3E1xrQAcZ053PP67_AmCv1FwhojVb1QrGmOb9S5k2g/s320/DSC_0876.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_k0VSz0fR7q-QyHSCk10x3dJ6qycawJjZLKbn42chD6qeW7QaUbhQ2sVmYvA3MrUpFEKHFSaxqENIieQp3fq4OePsFq98RTzdeeYvwHP64CeNNZeMQ_1cTilyujUJo0PGk3_ply4sSQ/s1600/DSC_0879.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_k0VSz0fR7q-QyHSCk10x3dJ6qycawJjZLKbn42chD6qeW7QaUbhQ2sVmYvA3MrUpFEKHFSaxqENIieQp3fq4OePsFq98RTzdeeYvwHP64CeNNZeMQ_1cTilyujUJo0PGk3_ply4sSQ/s320/DSC_0879.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZc_sRnQH5cK-0DdrkuF3n0O56b0KW2KpQBdIw47QN67WS2GkU8Iw8BjxEq_0KzSaGuXHSJ4xzN-5-orw3HZm_OefxrP-Yxo6q9JSW55gSYGjZNQiq1KkhIuiFNBQ-xr3zCSYuKEo7hQ/s1600/DSC_0774+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZc_sRnQH5cK-0DdrkuF3n0O56b0KW2KpQBdIw47QN67WS2GkU8Iw8BjxEq_0KzSaGuXHSJ4xzN-5-orw3HZm_OefxrP-Yxo6q9JSW55gSYGjZNQiq1KkhIuiFNBQ-xr3zCSYuKEo7hQ/s320/DSC_0774+%25282%2529.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the final result using one of my photos as backdrop:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSX0QIkge9eCkN7BOV7jUMMgr2tuW6Ghilj4JflKxkYKxLqc6MvUVtPjxVONOy932TWS-pQtcUnhZ5IAlU7zO5y-Ou18X7d6x1tFEbVRlUjYhmnW8wfyaLhqvKoxhdsvKUUIkRv1icg/s3840/DSC_4016.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSX0QIkge9eCkN7BOV7jUMMgr2tuW6Ghilj4JflKxkYKxLqc6MvUVtPjxVONOy932TWS-pQtcUnhZ5IAlU7zO5y-Ou18X7d6x1tFEbVRlUjYhmnW8wfyaLhqvKoxhdsvKUUIkRv1icg/s400/DSC_4016.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-32399595782648798752019-12-26T19:17:00.003+01:002019-12-26T19:17:52.312+01:00Kato D51-498 DCC Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
There are two different model number for Kato D51-495 Orient Express'88 model. The first one is the item number 2016-2, with a more detailed cabin and what seems a more detailed model. It is the newest one, but on tracks derails much easily that the old model which is the item number 2006-3. Here you can see my approach to convert to DCC both models:</div>
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Starting with the 2016-2 model, it has the very same mechanics than the 2016-9 model that you can see in my previous post: <a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2019/08/kato-d51-2016-9-dcc-with-sound.html">http://www.clubncaldes.com/2019/08/kato-d51-2016-9-dcc-with-sound.html</a></div>
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You don't have to unscrew anything, everything is clipped, and there is plenty of space if you want to use a sound decoder like SD10A form Doehler & Haass. In this case, I decided to use a tiny Zimo MX616 decoder.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NgUrNVrIY_4LQIF14xhAq0_DeOJfaGgDJM-jFo29ZVuavcArq8efic51zBnKtzBi3eMBYtf0MpC9_TbjiakKj3RwM81Sir8tn7WPQ6ar1KwMc64CHYZPJAJq3GCaD-sAtC9u2qVTuQ/s1600/DSC_0061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="1200" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NgUrNVrIY_4LQIF14xhAq0_DeOJfaGgDJM-jFo29ZVuavcArq8efic51zBnKtzBi3eMBYtf0MpC9_TbjiakKj3RwM81Sir8tn7WPQ6ar1KwMc64CHYZPJAJq3GCaD-sAtC9u2qVTuQ/s320/DSC_0061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fist of all solder the current wires of the decoder to the current plates of the tender. Don't worry about the length of the wires as there is enough space to hide it. Plates can be easily removed and mounted again with the wires already soldered.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBEhovXu1RGo2XDb_UeeV6DJ7p9rudIgtSzd6JLMKjEDAUQbGn_thbSC8_wiIgouv34bIIMdxpHpvxMKOlc1XqbtEWOcyV-vLtpeFSkBztg4cPOhLicR_fxY2demmm6oyTEqncem-Cg/s1600/DSC_0062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBEhovXu1RGo2XDb_UeeV6DJ7p9rudIgtSzd6JLMKjEDAUQbGn_thbSC8_wiIgouv34bIIMdxpHpvxMKOlc1XqbtEWOcyV-vLtpeFSkBztg4cPOhLicR_fxY2demmm6oyTEqncem-Cg/s320/DSC_0062.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cabin and main body are removed easily, just with with the help of a thin screwdriver as they are only clipped.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DFlQa4uIutYeWYgmFgmW7I2mR5xJbKc1nAOtTtq_FNtJNsxsr9pinkfRMcQ1ttjDdNi9YpjkO1dUXk_xHkxhr8hC9Uj_fToKB81xfzPT2T-Iq2F7n79UvJu-O2bsJACMPjLbnj8v8g/s1600/DSC_0063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DFlQa4uIutYeWYgmFgmW7I2mR5xJbKc1nAOtTtq_FNtJNsxsr9pinkfRMcQ1ttjDdNi9YpjkO1dUXk_xHkxhr8hC9Uj_fToKB81xfzPT2T-Iq2F7n79UvJu-O2bsJACMPjLbnj8v8g/s320/DSC_0063.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then pull from the motor wires and un-solder them from the strips that will appear:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJoMGH63nlKXKY5ZcqwxTrV5cTFgEXbJQact9x0xk8f7LjdDtmShpktXE5nF3YOSVonVvKi5KwWgweGgxQtZzEPDREkiUsX5RC_84yOjubVHAUDTQ_E0c-82OUc0GvVYXpuhn05r83Q/s1600/DSC_0064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1200" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJoMGH63nlKXKY5ZcqwxTrV5cTFgEXbJQact9x0xk8f7LjdDtmShpktXE5nF3YOSVonVvKi5KwWgweGgxQtZzEPDREkiUsX5RC_84yOjubVHAUDTQ_E0c-82OUc0GvVYXpuhn05r83Q/s320/DSC_0064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tender weights can be already mounted after passing the motor wires as seen in the following photo. Again, leaving wires too long is not an issue:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qKHmewwoS_5r6KToCH3cv0FULHCBUz1M_UWJEkgrNGV067OyaRJd21XZjcAbO7KyslbBENw1J3yazaZTXLzQEJk7tPrCdLQ96aAr9Cg3YNlTKIosyxqd8ciCfZVbTNL-tRtRlkvVoA/s1600/DSC_0068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qKHmewwoS_5r6KToCH3cv0FULHCBUz1M_UWJEkgrNGV067OyaRJd21XZjcAbO7KyslbBENw1J3yazaZTXLzQEJk7tPrCdLQ96aAr9Cg3YNlTKIosyxqd8ciCfZVbTNL-tRtRlkvVoA/s320/DSC_0068.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Isolate the wires once soldered with Kapton tape:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMReuI16cwxzYYzlS_mPCAIinuqryF53swAgjQ1vWvF1G6I-nYqUTvyFTPqLQqPZp-ttW_t8utRPDDVdxCY3WrbhrwuRSKwN2Vky8SIubZyvkgEUexWjRY36dcsT77Jb7XHkp3WkogCw/s1600/DSC_0070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMReuI16cwxzYYzlS_mPCAIinuqryF53swAgjQ1vWvF1G6I-nYqUTvyFTPqLQqPZp-ttW_t8utRPDDVdxCY3WrbhrwuRSKwN2Vky8SIubZyvkgEUexWjRY36dcsT77Jb7XHkp3WkogCw/s320/DSC_0070.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And this is finally how it looks before closing it:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ5N-QWyTmWQIIdTKtxMy50HHnoigMF-VEosmt1AHzCK2jRm630TCni3bCgwlTaXoZzGohlJ9kyIb0aUhkQTrwKFur1231-kEUrxlJdvROFUY1M9nPX2cYAUolyZZ1hXoJwBgcoZVd9w/s1600/DSC_0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ5N-QWyTmWQIIdTKtxMy50HHnoigMF-VEosmt1AHzCK2jRm630TCni3bCgwlTaXoZzGohlJ9kyIb0aUhkQTrwKFur1231-kEUrxlJdvROFUY1M9nPX2cYAUolyZZ1hXoJwBgcoZVd9w/s320/DSC_0073.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpe6yA26lek2lZY3NxqR2okkAH11RWTS2Jp2yp59RPtQIT33g6Aos293T_G2Cn9hCoXXQcWQCh2fcr2oenyoLsD7pVUKJFibGkJ2_sjahyphenhyphenJ-KPpYXNaXrdiJEKLMmHw4nWCoGHRqXaHg/s1600/DSC_0074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpe6yA26lek2lZY3NxqR2okkAH11RWTS2Jp2yp59RPtQIT33g6Aos293T_G2Cn9hCoXXQcWQCh2fcr2oenyoLsD7pVUKJFibGkJ2_sjahyphenhyphenJ-KPpYXNaXrdiJEKLMmHw4nWCoGHRqXaHg/s320/DSC_0074.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And now you can compare it with the old model 2006-3, not as well detailed but with a much better behaviour on tracks. To unmount the tender you have to unscrew one of the bogies, <b>don't pull from the tender because in this model it is not clipped</b>. Inside you will see the following piece that is clipped. Here is were you have to solder the motor wires:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OuPWzOG_1nyUltICSc5BitU_kJNc_o5u6L4jEZDUbnhIfmhWMBQaVDaWoSEZtc-PgAJOmhK7d1_rajpq0diRfGCrBmjOtCBKXN7d443xxGeA_tOtBZAjGqj_fMw2dM72C5lwZeIrDA/s1600/DSC_0075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="732" data-original-width="1200" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OuPWzOG_1nyUltICSc5BitU_kJNc_o5u6L4jEZDUbnhIfmhWMBQaVDaWoSEZtc-PgAJOmhK7d1_rajpq0diRfGCrBmjOtCBKXN7d443xxGeA_tOtBZAjGqj_fMw2dM72C5lwZeIrDA/s320/DSC_0075.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To open the main body there is a hidden screw under the very first axle. You will need to move the first axle to one side to access it. Don't unscrew any other screw or you will have a lot of work to put all gears and little pieces in place again...</div>
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After removing the motor, cut the motor current plates that are folder to the side. Cut them to do not stand out from the support and avoid a short circuit, and solder the motor wires as you can see in the following photo:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzocLh8M7Fg0M4vURkABNx3-9UuhUVgxQcdOVb4wy-GIjammG1KPgxHTavj9XHqQk5awXW-uT599-VZ7cZKYyiwg-86DF3zyRmxoRlyem8fPD7YWBz-v-cQyQECW3Hh7HMmwiRHWcVbQ/s1600/DSC_0076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="1200" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzocLh8M7Fg0M4vURkABNx3-9UuhUVgxQcdOVb4wy-GIjammG1KPgxHTavj9XHqQk5awXW-uT599-VZ7cZKYyiwg-86DF3zyRmxoRlyem8fPD7YWBz-v-cQyQECW3Hh7HMmwiRHWcVbQ/s320/DSC_0076.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mounting the whole thing again is a little tricky, you will need three or four hands for it but just be patient and hold everything until being able to screw the bogie under the tender so everything keeps in place. To close the tender you will have to sand a little bit the hull under the front side, where the motor wires pass from the tender to the main body:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9j8W4pZw5ALL8qxYjH8uOpoECsIH-Lwk4pq5xfGyunvuQBRe1oz3u8iQ-E6ZtCntBb1c0f7dFDoXBivMkNpjqKuQiTnAs2guKJbozDqcTgCulyfwiPsW9hqw7NI6CXKAOZrpn1Ls9w/s1600/DSC_0077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9j8W4pZw5ALL8qxYjH8uOpoECsIH-Lwk4pq5xfGyunvuQBRe1oz3u8iQ-E6ZtCntBb1c0f7dFDoXBivMkNpjqKuQiTnAs2guKJbozDqcTgCulyfwiPsW9hqw7NI6CXKAOZrpn1Ls9w/s320/DSC_0077.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Thanks for reading, and Merry Christmas to everybody!!<br />
<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-23417563290749122032019-09-06T20:06:00.000+02:002019-09-07T20:07:16.669+02:00Kato 7007-2 DF200-50 DCC ConversionThis Kato model has the same light board and structure than the EF66 that I already converted as described <a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2019/06/kato-3047-3-ef66-first-version.html">in this post</a>. So I just followed the same instructions, but in this case using a Zimo MX616. There is no problem of space, putting the decoder in one of the sides the roof has space for this or even a bigger decoder.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm5JVZ1Jic7VAquwJXwkkt4DoAQz19d-xuHaIkkDJixDKa2-a5lUmqyIuszVfXDw9M-7rcMuvdrZXenIW458L8fxYfhkS800nxXzqNHbs_VDZoBV3CkMeyfzZDHZctD2NCnM1rFWj_w/s1600/DSC_1982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm5JVZ1Jic7VAquwJXwkkt4DoAQz19d-xuHaIkkDJixDKa2-a5lUmqyIuszVfXDw9M-7rcMuvdrZXenIW458L8fxYfhkS800nxXzqNHbs_VDZoBV3CkMeyfzZDHZctD2NCnM1rFWj_w/s320/DSC_1982.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once you remove the light board, flip the motor plates in vertical position. When you insert again the light board these plates won't be under the board, but over it. You won't need neither any Kapton tape nor isolating any point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2tTL3NxGJ6Ea-mBq3-kI0RdsNe_HVoeFWfSytiHN7tF1fl8MY7XcohR5tAN6JWZwqtvFVJCCCNef3B6s3lGuOcTdJekl5qAGu8I3NADqs_QJjONCYEeSZyifWgDe91ArQBVnziyC_w/s1600/DSC_1983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2tTL3NxGJ6Ea-mBq3-kI0RdsNe_HVoeFWfSytiHN7tF1fl8MY7XcohR5tAN6JWZwqtvFVJCCCNef3B6s3lGuOcTdJekl5qAGu8I3NADqs_QJjONCYEeSZyifWgDe91ArQBVnziyC_w/s320/DSC_1983.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the following photo I'm showing how to prepare the light board:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Red arrow: you have to cut the track in this 3 points</li>
<li>Blue arrow: make a bridge between the cooper tracks. First remove the capacitor, and make a bridge instead.</li>
<li>Yellow arrow: soldering point, tin these 4 points and the motor plates</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqk1ADVbSsjjlwQ7pWIjVXcQasyHBkWyDHEKWBxO_CWgT3LUJwTrinA1NDoWaK5D0Jf-AHwqXegPkCTGQEklVnBOvPylS7z3J0pv0ibHHnr9QvboMB1VEK1yyPeftb13c_hmvA82vp7w/s1600/2019-09-07+19_55_30-Foto+de+DCC+Conversions+-+Google+Fotos.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="676" data-original-width="1353" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqk1ADVbSsjjlwQ7pWIjVXcQasyHBkWyDHEKWBxO_CWgT3LUJwTrinA1NDoWaK5D0Jf-AHwqXegPkCTGQEklVnBOvPylS7z3J0pv0ibHHnr9QvboMB1VEK1yyPeftb13c_hmvA82vp7w/s320/2019-09-07+19_55_30-Foto+de+DCC+Conversions+-+Google+Fotos.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the decoder soldered and in place:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVGzUw_RSHz8NRWqjfxdqK7nCz4It56XmIwxck5-n37qRFGF_jEup-7Rnnzbulm1YpiNO5jl8plYKzMuvT74EiauKuxTspOSw9nKTDXjHX4y9ZT7sVbERFDNmVg8BeGehe9CLI9UaDA/s1600/DSC_1988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVGzUw_RSHz8NRWqjfxdqK7nCz4It56XmIwxck5-n37qRFGF_jEup-7Rnnzbulm1YpiNO5jl8plYKzMuvT74EiauKuxTspOSw9nKTDXjHX4y9ZT7sVbERFDNmVg8BeGehe9CLI9UaDA/s320/DSC_1988.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And that's all, enjoy!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5jylqOD6f-9GRMmv8pzHYkQq2r-9l6cYQj-nSEx-OL88x4zSnXFO3xo0scQ5hLb4fE_jeLbnd5HYBIcWTSDFcZWbPbI0nHM7UTjFUhJssd5hUU7mdX_CnE4yLxV7Ml1mfghqN4-73Q/s1600/DSC_1991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5jylqOD6f-9GRMmv8pzHYkQq2r-9l6cYQj-nSEx-OL88x4zSnXFO3xo0scQ5hLb4fE_jeLbnd5HYBIcWTSDFcZWbPbI0nHM7UTjFUhJssd5hUU7mdX_CnE4yLxV7Ml1mfghqN4-73Q/s320/DSC_1991.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-35978086547802025462019-09-01T18:36:00.001+02:002019-09-01T18:37:51.388+02:00SVLocoIO firmware for Arduino updatedA new functionality has been released for SVLocoIO firmware. This is the Arduino program we use for all I/O Loconet modules. This means, it is the main Arduino software to manage sensors and outputs (street lights, layout illumination, ...).<br />
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It was missing a functionality that other boards do, which is to inform about the state of the inputs (sensors) at power on. When the command station is turned on, or the power on button of your software like Rocrail or iTrain is pressed, the module will send the current state of those ports configured as input.<br />
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With a bit more of technical detail, when a OPC_GPON command is sent throuth Loconet, the board responds a OPC_INPUT_REP message for each configured input.<br />
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If you want to deactivate this functionality, delete or comment the line in the top of the code:<br />
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><span style="background-color: black; color: lime;">#define</span> INFORMATPOWERON</span><br />
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I also corrected some errors when calculating the input number of a pin. It was affecting to the debug mode making the input numbers to be printed wrong. With this correction the maximum input number has been increased to 2048.<br />
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You can download it from: <a href="https://github.com/ClubNCaldes/SVLocoIO">https://github.com/ClubNCaldes/SVLocoIO</a><br />
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NOTE:<br />
If you use this firmware with GCA185 Loconet shield board, remember you don't need the pulldown resistors of the board as the program uses the Arduino internal pullup resistors.<br />
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-80227596785460310072019-08-29T19:16:00.000+02:002019-09-01T10:08:01.338+02:00DIY Simple DCC Command Station for less than 20€In our last exhibition we missed to have an independent command station to read and write CV. Normally we are managing trains in automatic mode, so command station and Rocrail are busy managing trains and we cannot stop if we need to program a new locomotive or read its data if we don't know the locomotive number it has.<br />
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So we decided to make a new module with two independent tracks and an independent command station so we can read, program and test locomotives. This module will be in the operator's side, connected to the "T" module that we use to enter or extract compositions to the main tracks.<br />
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We took profit of the fantastic DCC++ project, and just changed it to add a display, keypad and slider so we don't need the PC to perform any of the above operations before running a train in the main layout.<br />
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Disclaimer</h3>
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Before continue reading, please consider the following typical disclaimer for DIY projects that applies to all this blog:</div>
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<i>DIY projects are purely “at your own risk”. As with any DIY project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. Posts should be construed as theoretical advice only. I’m not a professional, but only a hobbiest passing on ideas and tips to other hobbiests. Information and techniques I show here can change, and there can be mistakes in the information I publish, so I’m not responsible if that happens. Please consider my instructions as a guide only.</i></div>
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Shopping List</h2>
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Arduino MEGA 2560 R3, 5€<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMImdg-hQQkYL3xQukqXVwAxzXGH33VSNcRQPiKZkJsbe3xTxdBAUUFskbJos82sQXV7m4VPCycDfkGOPYj7yMeMXisNUsSA6X6kiYs1Kqatt4IQY6ggwZWLesXqRuO7mx77swP6iY_g/s1600/Mega2560.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="285" data-original-width="441" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMImdg-hQQkYL3xQukqXVwAxzXGH33VSNcRQPiKZkJsbe3xTxdBAUUFskbJos82sQXV7m4VPCycDfkGOPYj7yMeMXisNUsSA6X6kiYs1Kqatt4IQY6ggwZWLesXqRuO7mx77swP6iY_g/s320/Mega2560.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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L298 Motor Shield, 5€<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4z39w0SYfM2uhPTa30ozBhwd1S8S-uOCKhu60C4_glmYwBlokduPC__SkYukQKqsrnFOC9Pqzpo3wgG0iMbsq1z5Y-pWjiABljVMiEk4__eXjPsiPl6RzhJ5AY2lasAPrQbSpbjC7ew/s1600/L298MotorShield.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="753" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4z39w0SYfM2uhPTa30ozBhwd1S8S-uOCKhu60C4_glmYwBlokduPC__SkYukQKqsrnFOC9Pqzpo3wgG0iMbsq1z5Y-pWjiABljVMiEk4__eXjPsiPl6RzhJ5AY2lasAPrQbSpbjC7ew/s320/L298MotorShield.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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4x5 matrix Keypad, 1€<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4IcDrsEQA8Ybt3mwPsEU7G-0yDzxMZ_gOz97ids2ULVkwmxQo6EZETuRxiEwk04tFb8sAStrTOrxQAc6-TLRhRKktOqRWmSfWBLUY2Mn3OF2xluY_hQc3_ojbYdgRnlpYMHPajLC_mQ/s1600/Keypad4x5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="264" data-original-width="436" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4IcDrsEQA8Ybt3mwPsEU7G-0yDzxMZ_gOz97ids2ULVkwmxQo6EZETuRxiEwk04tFb8sAStrTOrxQAc6-TLRhRKktOqRWmSfWBLUY2Mn3OF2xluY_hQc3_ojbYdgRnlpYMHPajLC_mQ/s320/Keypad4x5.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Slide Pot, or linear potentiometer, 1€<br />
We chose a linear potentiometer, but it can be a regular button potentiometer or any other kind.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeJY1tVs4jkmvf_8cf2ehFZ-MpioD3ZtCSM0hsKQshO23DgV1KEcJylFvIvG5JwYA3-WecQ4GQQzAEJTHmuJ5CN0TVk_-1jREYn81LGxL_CUsclSzUAc-Xw62ForxnMy0IrdGXJ22AQ/s1600/SlidePot.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="236" data-original-width="504" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeJY1tVs4jkmvf_8cf2ehFZ-MpioD3ZtCSM0hsKQshO23DgV1KEcJylFvIvG5JwYA3-WecQ4GQQzAEJTHmuJ5CN0TVk_-1jREYn81LGxL_CUsclSzUAc-Xw62ForxnMy0IrdGXJ22AQ/s320/SlidePot.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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20x4 LCD display with I2C controller, 6€<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDxpFkTa5qionSgo37WdfVKbtXPTURRwBVllDp8GNLw2OIRzUr-sRPqSUfVM57uoz5jKzkg-vEnosKYzVLZxBL4fX8d_phiG1MiuSFwbuuXOTSwvBrlQXTgNQaKOvL8KiZ1NO6Q81Hg/s1600/LCD_I2C_30X4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="452" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDxpFkTa5qionSgo37WdfVKbtXPTURRwBVllDp8GNLw2OIRzUr-sRPqSUfVM57uoz5jKzkg-vEnosKYzVLZxBL4fX8d_phiG1MiuSFwbuuXOTSwvBrlQXTgNQaKOvL8KiZ1NO6Q81Hg/s320/LCD_I2C_30X4.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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A bunch of DUPONT cables for the connections, 1€<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbp2hLowVKpIui17Qdbsi3nJ6-y-PWqib4I7SQLC-g-6axODunhgf-OerKxlbuAD2fuzcTRBn_4rxfJR66_KDbeT6tpTvLxZznChBZmL9UVuVmDo-vicjr7e8xE8qq9jXP9ny-UzLeVg/s1600/DupontCable.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="387" data-original-width="464" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbp2hLowVKpIui17Qdbsi3nJ6-y-PWqib4I7SQLC-g-6axODunhgf-OerKxlbuAD2fuzcTRBn_4rxfJR66_KDbeT6tpTvLxZznChBZmL9UVuVmDo-vicjr7e8xE8qq9jXP9ny-UzLeVg/s320/DupontCable.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Two power sources, one for Arduiono and an independent one for the motor shield. We recomend a 16Vdc 3Amp power source for the motor shild, as we found with less voltage some decoders do not respond to CV commands, or sound decoders do not work properly.<br />
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Connection</h2>
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Please check first my previous post about how to mount the original DCC++ command station <a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/02/build-your-own-dcc-command-station-for-8.html" target="_blank">here</a> (<a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/02/build-your-own-dcc-command-station-for-8.html">http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/02/build-your-own-dcc-command-station-for-8.html</a>). Motor shield needs some preparation (cutting a pad and making a bridge between pins 2 and 13).<br />
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After that you can connect the new elements (keypad, display and slider pot) as shown in the following scheme. Take into account that the keypad of the scheme is not the correct one (we are using the 4x5 keypad, see photo above these lines), but I couldn't find the Fritzing object for the right keypad:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4Cdqg7bzLwSI2Yd2-KqzOeGNX_FTueoUPAHjpiUJd31fjrDk2qAOjvJOce3zE-vn8CdAcsZpBj3VH7rCr5bcoz-_Fxlp3mAxloSmcQDgvxEGPsKAsQW9FCfVbuYYzR5GJycCBeo1GQ/s1600/FritzingScheme.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="653" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4Cdqg7bzLwSI2Yd2-KqzOeGNX_FTueoUPAHjpiUJd31fjrDk2qAOjvJOce3zE-vn8CdAcsZpBj3VH7rCr5bcoz-_Fxlp3mAxloSmcQDgvxEGPsKAsQW9FCfVbuYYzR5GJycCBeo1GQ/s400/FritzingScheme.png" width="318" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li>Display needs 5V, GND and two wires to SDA and SCL pins of Arduino (pins 20 and 21)</li>
<li>Potentiometer needs 5V and GND in the same way, and the signal is connected to A8</li>
<li>Keypad is connected using 9 pins (from 22 to 30)</li>
<li>You will need one power source for Arduino, and an independent 16Vdc power source for the motor shield</li>
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Program</h2>
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You will find always the latest version of the program to upload to the Arduino in the following link, were you can freely download from ClubNCaldes github repository and upload it to the Arduino Mega board:</div>
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<a href="https://github.com/ClubNCaldes/DCCppProgrammer">https://github.com/ClubNCaldes/DCCppProgrammer</a></div>
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<h2>
How it works</h2>
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I tried to make it as much intuitive as possible, but this are the main keys:</div>
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"*" ON, tracks are feeded with current</div>
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"#" OFF, no current to tracks</div>
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"F1" RUN MODE, this is the mode to run and test trains</div>
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"F2" PROG MODE, this is the mode to read and write CV in the programming track</div>
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In RUN MODE the left and right arrow are used to set the direction of travel, while the numbers activate or deactivate the functions. Speed is controlled with the slide pot.</div>
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In PROG MODE you can see a little help in the last line of the display which tells you the meaning of each CV entered (just for the standard ones like address number, acceleration, break, config...)</div>
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I hope you enjoy this simple but useful DCC command station for you own projects.</div>
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Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-74816860560572667122019-08-22T17:22:00.001+02:002019-08-22T17:36:01.743+02:00Kato D51 2016-9 DCC with sound<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I don't know if Kato planned this model to be easy to convert to DCC, but it seems so. I converted several D51, but this is the easiest one and has a lot of space to add sound also.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVjAPztX2UywbsVmTFZa5F9q5f1a_99SuuWMvp16OVwahkv34sPOgtZ9wHOfFtD-LxeBG7P0S1XxOSLUZ961ckMJS41aRJPTjLTMssRUgZhJuVznX1GzF63cad7SfNrPcWQGi2y6L_A/s1600/DSC_1717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="791" data-original-width="1600" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVjAPztX2UywbsVmTFZa5F9q5f1a_99SuuWMvp16OVwahkv34sPOgtZ9wHOfFtD-LxeBG7P0S1XxOSLUZ961ckMJS41aRJPTjLTMssRUgZhJuVznX1GzF63cad7SfNrPcWQGi2y6L_A/s320/DSC_1717.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The weights in the tender are not occupying all the space and you can add a SD10A decoder and a small speaker from D&H. I purchased them in <a href="http://www.decoders.es/">www.decoders.es</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg518ugPhgqLSP3qg4WHT_gJm6TWIx9SCO8NdcRq5vqV8MWRE2BXxsDi88a7HZkuTJAF0OrHi62ad_8ugDmBorqOwMwHNGoVt3fzhyTR9rDSOUxiUoOdFxwRJwmaMuVYCqFcmzCd5xG0g/s1600/DSC_1720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="1600" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg518ugPhgqLSP3qg4WHT_gJm6TWIx9SCO8NdcRq5vqV8MWRE2BXxsDi88a7HZkuTJAF0OrHi62ad_8ugDmBorqOwMwHNGoVt3fzhyTR9rDSOUxiUoOdFxwRJwmaMuVYCqFcmzCd5xG0g/s320/DSC_1720.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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If using SD10A decoder, first you need to solder some small cables to the SUSI pads to connect it to the D&H programmer. I couldn't find a specific D51 sound project, but some steam projects have similar sound to the original one as I could check looking for videos in Youtube.</div>
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This custom board you see between the decoder and the programmer is just to help with the connection and testing of the sound decoders. I made it to be able to connect the sound decoders with screw terminals, and it has also a speaker. I think the design of the D&H programmer is awful when referring to the connection, programming and testing of sound decoders. It is missing screw terminals and a test speaker. It's not a cheap device and connection of decoders is horrible so better make a small helper board like this one.</div>
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Once the sound is programmed, we can come back to the decoder installation. Here you can see were to solder the current wires, red and black ones:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinyRZ2DEaJM_Y9kM4FQMUgXDfzIjzstWEzjGfXYs8gMnLveRIsgju8UeTYfzMuNb_oRhsnO_QKSZA1zgpwiOUKWYcpUIFBAjwyUbsXQI0FsTUqim6_5il5VsUpwQyXFTo81_XV7Wluhg/s1600/DSC_1733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinyRZ2DEaJM_Y9kM4FQMUgXDfzIjzstWEzjGfXYs8gMnLveRIsgju8UeTYfzMuNb_oRhsnO_QKSZA1zgpwiOUKWYcpUIFBAjwyUbsXQI0FsTUqim6_5il5VsUpwQyXFTo81_XV7Wluhg/s320/DSC_1733.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the following photos you can see how it fits in the tender. Remember to isolate the decoder with Kapton tape and pass motor wires (orange and gray) throw the existing hole like in the photos:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2TQx_OY_RAUc1sjh8UqYyt2aSlpmgM9NuQqNK8CWiN_Um70qBZ0RwWbOBomUPkqUpc5pwD0tIzCWTmfTyesY5wEIkZyWBNK0P20eEBOrvn8dCtKtTKwCAqZVDpEv_M5RlYqYoSxnG2w/s1600/DSC_1734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2TQx_OY_RAUc1sjh8UqYyt2aSlpmgM9NuQqNK8CWiN_Um70qBZ0RwWbOBomUPkqUpc5pwD0tIzCWTmfTyesY5wEIkZyWBNK0P20eEBOrvn8dCtKtTKwCAqZVDpEv_M5RlYqYoSxnG2w/s320/DSC_1734.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNzdToJ1JZDUkaxyaG0JCgQvpDpLjql4rMOAaT-Fe1XD7-gdVSX85uOP6EeMnwPI4RUo-3qX0F3xPFux6Coj80rY1n7MezkHukvXOcP42fmA-Ie-W78QwkbC243VJNbp5JjhTEmX4xA/s1600/DSC_1736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNzdToJ1JZDUkaxyaG0JCgQvpDpLjql4rMOAaT-Fe1XD7-gdVSX85uOP6EeMnwPI4RUo-3qX0F3xPFux6Coj80rY1n7MezkHukvXOcP42fmA-Ie-W78QwkbC243VJNbp5JjhTEmX4xA/s320/DSC_1736.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQus-zytV76VH8oYvpCh3VmbRxwdFUMDMKH4tY2Q2OTH5NrqkDaPpdm8EegGMuVWuUHCws3j5wllsTPeUImj_ZRTne7KmklXRr-z3JahcIH4rXXQ3SVmcDIEXi-cbzjZmi1EaHWWIwQg/s1600/DSC_1739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQus-zytV76VH8oYvpCh3VmbRxwdFUMDMKH4tY2Q2OTH5NrqkDaPpdm8EegGMuVWuUHCws3j5wllsTPeUImj_ZRTne7KmklXRr-z3JahcIH4rXXQ3SVmcDIEXi-cbzjZmi1EaHWWIwQg/s320/DSC_1739.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally, cut the motor wires (or remove the cooper plates used by the motor to pick up the current) and solder them to the orange and gray cables of the decoder. Ready to test:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/__0fkvErRU0/default.jpg?sqp=CPjp-uoF&rs=AOn4CLD35qnnaM-XlYEWD5Ks-aKfmrpFjg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/__0fkvErRU0?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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I found using this decoder that the locomotive was not running smoothly, it was instead advancing in fits and starts. This was fixed changing CV56 (Motor proportional controller) to value 0. </div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/I8k4qIwdmhU/default.jpg?sqp=CKTs-uoF&rs=AOn4CLAp3ALx4Ci_274_9ca-jciIyimyTQ" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/I8k4qIwdmhU?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">This CV has something to do with what Doehler & Haass calls "Super Soft Drive". It seems a kind of motor auto regulation, doing some pauses between current pulses to the motor and measuring it in order to adjust the pulse width (or something like that....). But the fact is that it drove me crazy until I could find a clue about it and deactivate it.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp9iTf-m3imL7CKBNWy3rrLVZW2z4CD0_F6yZQDpp8itiuFp2o6XbSygbmOufmW6dyDzMjjuyaurpQurNPtD6NlELZS_wvbbZyT1vX18A6-liNu8z_PjmyokFEEXVElNomrHVLn8NYxg/s1600/asic_regelung.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="238" data-original-width="629" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp9iTf-m3imL7CKBNWy3rrLVZW2z4CD0_F6yZQDpp8itiuFp2o6XbSygbmOufmW6dyDzMjjuyaurpQurNPtD6NlELZS_wvbbZyT1vX18A6-liNu8z_PjmyokFEEXVElNomrHVLn8NYxg/s320/asic_regelung.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-59123633126655502642019-06-16T20:34:00.000+02:002019-09-03T20:34:42.351+02:00Kato 3047-3 EF66 First VersionThis is a quite fast digitalization if you have experience in Kato electric locomotive models:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGT6Fz0AS4kojUbxycUvztj1dl9ZHH0JBCgdS9GMhdsSzuBAODFIF5Ve3AvJ4JT7KrYwtkSpbY_aJ-9qkFxYSeMs4fHVQsVRBrxJ7AacmUl_ddUy5kgks4gSKm1xdsQotlfQAa1E8XxA/s1600/DSC_1637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGT6Fz0AS4kojUbxycUvztj1dl9ZHH0JBCgdS9GMhdsSzuBAODFIF5Ve3AvJ4JT7KrYwtkSpbY_aJ-9qkFxYSeMs4fHVQsVRBrxJ7AacmUl_ddUy5kgks4gSKm1xdsQotlfQAa1E8XxA/s320/DSC_1637.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbIwOceHtrN8yHEcM_Ht3MIDf0Sf5fUY2zUEUS1YnE7Lf27XdhFxEuqMY_lelrtDcS5Qjij151beA9fsVTyWzxTBlO2q7x_uM3MCJgKVp_-T3NGM3SS422_G_2IutKN_1WM9qie3E2g/s1600/DSC_1639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbIwOceHtrN8yHEcM_Ht3MIDf0Sf5fUY2zUEUS1YnE7Lf27XdhFxEuqMY_lelrtDcS5Qjij151beA9fsVTyWzxTBlO2q7x_uM3MCJgKVp_-T3NGM3SS422_G_2IutKN_1WM9qie3E2g/s320/DSC_1639.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM-Hv-TOxryoiH6Bk2rufx8wCsgZv-LvgToecmYEykqhLflZ-zB1ojnNJVMtlBP-99B62-sOzGgnXVdAP6sWamK6CY-K2pphsHEiI-KYosI9wdzRKhFwtvUYEuQYr9yrnfSXP1mzRAw/s1600/DSC_1644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM-Hv-TOxryoiH6Bk2rufx8wCsgZv-LvgToecmYEykqhLflZ-zB1ojnNJVMtlBP-99B62-sOzGgnXVdAP6sWamK6CY-K2pphsHEiI-KYosI9wdzRKhFwtvUYEuQYr9yrnfSXP1mzRAw/s320/DSC_1644.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My common strategy is no do not flip one of the led lights when they are SMD components. In fact, it is not possible to solder them again if you turn them upside down, as the solder pads are just in one side. So the solution is to modify the board to reroute the current as needed:</div>
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First of all detect which is the positive lead of the led, and this must be connected to the current after the resistor. Then you have to isolate the negative lead and this will be connected to the white and yellow wires from the decoder.</div>
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One easy way, and with no danger, to detect which is the positive and negative side of the led is using a tester or polimeter in diode or conductivity mode. This is the mode where it beeps when current is passing without resistance. Touching the led with the tester pliers will make it light slightly when in the correct place. This is the red plier in the positive lead, and black plier in the negative one.</div>
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Here you have indications showing where I cut the cooper tracks (3 places, in red) and were to make a bridge between tracks (blue):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJyjmJtvc5jnLpeQwOfCu4-WIhp1di2ScAW-tp9oiyBJIDOQEUjqBmZKsCJGrce5S3fSuqocdKfiKLEOjGoOrmY1h12V8WVzZXAk-239GXz8DztNMkTwCHYppsLlp0f56jrQMK3LNMg/s1600/2019-09-03+20_21_59-Window.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="1382" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJyjmJtvc5jnLpeQwOfCu4-WIhp1di2ScAW-tp9oiyBJIDOQEUjqBmZKsCJGrce5S3fSuqocdKfiKLEOjGoOrmY1h12V8WVzZXAk-239GXz8DztNMkTwCHYppsLlp0f56jrQMK3LNMg/s320/2019-09-03+20_21_59-Window.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used in this case a DH05 decoder form Doehler & Haass, purchased at <a href="http://decoders.es/">decoders.es</a>:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguexPcP6JoyAacn-AkoU5kJrkfUOoRkSe_UaV-pYu0mHj-8AxGD8x8Ka8dlwFcSUTECqFLDprHchQGGg2mU-w63Vdh6DJnOu-IE2LXt3mz4XUdTMcdm6vgHxDktj2dwpsgldDYwG8IaQ/s1600/DSC_1646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguexPcP6JoyAacn-AkoU5kJrkfUOoRkSe_UaV-pYu0mHj-8AxGD8x8Ka8dlwFcSUTECqFLDprHchQGGg2mU-w63Vdh6DJnOu-IE2LXt3mz4XUdTMcdm6vgHxDktj2dwpsgldDYwG8IaQ/s320/DSC_1646.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And that's all, no need of sanding or making place in the shell as this decoder fits well in the position you see in the photo, and if you reroute wires properly:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyi97uq85GZbJsD1rA3D5olFjC0Se3GKejxmInSEtPPwo1omMu-bjeOy1HNSwILDrzQ7-Ez__j-k5L1L063BJxYyEEPsRvr1W2ZIHL3h_JDOs8fYZoB3nVhrf5xTbTwoWgEZWZAu6oLg/s1600/DSC_1651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyi97uq85GZbJsD1rA3D5olFjC0Se3GKejxmInSEtPPwo1omMu-bjeOy1HNSwILDrzQ7-Ez__j-k5L1L063BJxYyEEPsRvr1W2ZIHL3h_JDOs8fYZoB3nVhrf5xTbTwoWgEZWZAu6oLg/s320/DSC_1651.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-86653001928785869602019-05-05T19:56:00.000+02:002019-09-04T19:56:37.824+02:00Kato 3045 EH200 DCC ConversionI've been always scared about "double body" locomotives, but you will see this EH200 model from Kato is pretty easy and straight to convert to DCC:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IfMqqwtodLFf4Alb-jor6PdCwR4Ci_jeIEFvBrD3S1-2sK8cdI4wYheDYoKRzWaTQlbXf85bKmYL00-7aJKs8GduzHvBgROva4i1mfdO-AHDSNCeQp6uTvUWykTB3MoHqD-WBjH-UA/s1600/DSC_1451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IfMqqwtodLFf4Alb-jor6PdCwR4Ci_jeIEFvBrD3S1-2sK8cdI4wYheDYoKRzWaTQlbXf85bKmYL00-7aJKs8GduzHvBgROva4i1mfdO-AHDSNCeQp6uTvUWykTB3MoHqD-WBjH-UA/s320/DSC_1451.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Light boards have no capacitors, so there is no need to remove any component. The only needed modification is to make sure that the positive lead of both leds is connected to the resistor. One of them has to be turned for that. The negative lead has to be cut and solder here the white and yellow wires from the decoder as seen in the following photos:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_W8bpg-0A1LNtHbsLrBH7VyxcdWDmJVuRd2c1AmBRjZVgiJHw_7jgSlGz5bGCj9IiC32RSg8fwh7W8bzekPIHRLpJAjG6Wk0N7J-nyIrnfulIqYc2lRGUzUiaAvqBaSr86O7rIOVrfQ/s1600/DSC_1452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_W8bpg-0A1LNtHbsLrBH7VyxcdWDmJVuRd2c1AmBRjZVgiJHw_7jgSlGz5bGCj9IiC32RSg8fwh7W8bzekPIHRLpJAjG6Wk0N7J-nyIrnfulIqYc2lRGUzUiaAvqBaSr86O7rIOVrfQ/s320/DSC_1452.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIak06kaMhTM09JUwHgq6ok5bLOf-oGEj7tF5rLhNRNcjJVz0Hs7VuDtEgIBXJsZTnPPEiuStM-sWfw8AuTUoQUv7EX3hyphenhyphen7XRLqlY2VYjdfnVUzOnl93Aml_DkkQ8E46zHgCS-INwVQ/s1600/DSC_1456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIak06kaMhTM09JUwHgq6ok5bLOf-oGEj7tF5rLhNRNcjJVz0Hs7VuDtEgIBXJsZTnPPEiuStM-sWfw8AuTUoQUv7EX3hyphenhyphen7XRLqlY2VYjdfnVUzOnl93Aml_DkkQ8E46zHgCS-INwVQ/s320/DSC_1456.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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First of all, you need to isolate motor plates from the current pick up plates. The easiest way is using Kapton tape:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5gwIYnexl7PKrkoj05tEeY7DkNPJYLUhE9yFSQfre7-xEnbFPcTA_ibm4evV0CTLWLNVn_oUVoXOKCvhK7w8c43xJJ1PUfFjq-rFeDar_73G4p4txgnhGwMvP6ir1yqjxu9J2OMxRA/s1600/DSC_1459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5gwIYnexl7PKrkoj05tEeY7DkNPJYLUhE9yFSQfre7-xEnbFPcTA_ibm4evV0CTLWLNVn_oUVoXOKCvhK7w8c43xJJ1PUfFjq-rFeDar_73G4p4txgnhGwMvP6ir1yqjxu9J2OMxRA/s320/DSC_1459.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm using a very small decoder, a Doehler Haass PD05A-3. I found the best position is the one shown in the following photo. Even here, a bit of sanding will be necessary:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdyCnbI2EB23zCUABMzysq13kORu5A82lCZx9Wie5gXeVS8Ets47D5L01-f5-wux5aYRH9WXe47lO7KQ9wwxsOoHSgcjSbw3CzCWet3OWEuc8N7_pjhNE9gTHcDpEXFGDBOQUDEpPRg/s1600/DSC_1460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdyCnbI2EB23zCUABMzysq13kORu5A82lCZx9Wie5gXeVS8Ets47D5L01-f5-wux5aYRH9WXe47lO7KQ9wwxsOoHSgcjSbw3CzCWet3OWEuc8N7_pjhNE9gTHcDpEXFGDBOQUDEpPRg/s320/DSC_1460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Better than sanding the lead piece, if you coot the roof it will fit and nothing will be seen with the plastic piece over the top shell:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cj6dCgT8RX2F9pl32lS_6hPChUu_ZApN9kERwb0PzXZqLF5AI_iWFM_0lpGH4dbMnkife4fujPkkW4un44e2_QbrrnFnbRsaxmAqKbdmZ1e2hD48dTNf_CMo92aElNHroB2xhcU4Zg/s1600/DSC_1463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cj6dCgT8RX2F9pl32lS_6hPChUu_ZApN9kERwb0PzXZqLF5AI_iWFM_0lpGH4dbMnkife4fujPkkW4un44e2_QbrrnFnbRsaxmAqKbdmZ1e2hD48dTNf_CMo92aElNHroB2xhcU4Zg/s320/DSC_1463.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And that's all, enjoy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHYaiLCHKvIVn3vt7SH1yZaA1-hUm_wh76MOGw1lv45q7xrGHAkYraMz6dNXt50dy1wAY7l7Oj64nStwlR86-R6wBMbjvmEUMX9FzmGDC_EpqL6l5uZQxdU428P4Zlx7yEOv3761NQg/s1600/DSC_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHYaiLCHKvIVn3vt7SH1yZaA1-hUm_wh76MOGw1lv45q7xrGHAkYraMz6dNXt50dy1wAY7l7Oj64nStwlR86-R6wBMbjvmEUMX9FzmGDC_EpqL6l5uZQxdU428P4Zlx7yEOv3761NQg/s320/DSC_1468.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-69473417988650552002019-04-16T19:52:00.000+02:002019-09-05T19:52:24.207+02:00MicroAce A-0754 Nankai 50000系 `Rapit` Renewaled Car DCC Conversion<div style="text-align: justify;">
I love in general MicroAce models as they are really exclusive, but I admit I skip many models if I can get them from Kato or Tomix. I feel they are quite tricky to convert for DCC operation. In this case also I found the model not at MicroAce quality level. Seemed too much a "plastic model" to me. Couplers is something to absolutely change and make better, with the standard Arnold couplers the model decreases dramatically its aspect. But let's start with the motor car:</div>
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The first difficulty is that it's not possible (I should better say I'm not able) to tin and solder those pad of silver color, like the motor ones. Secondly, you cannot take off the cooper plates from the plastic piece. Finally, there is no place to pass a wire under the seats plastic piece. So you will have to drill a hole in the right positions (check the photo) and solder in the cooper plates without melting the plastic:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZ2A0mAZH4_O6diDRYR-8B0RC4juhiopEb5mdQDwsJBdxZoahbqE33UyvAKA3AlGyhgfg6tiUpFLBbOnKRQSVcRmorjAMm0TuQHNLxej9Kb6L-usJ63uFXltTPEp4cFLFJHpFiF2zJw/s1600/DSC_1334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZ2A0mAZH4_O6diDRYR-8B0RC4juhiopEb5mdQDwsJBdxZoahbqE33UyvAKA3AlGyhgfg6tiUpFLBbOnKRQSVcRmorjAMm0TuQHNLxej9Kb6L-usJ63uFXltTPEp4cFLFJHpFiF2zJw/s320/DSC_1334.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The solution for the motor plates is to tin the wires and place them in the right place, under the motor plates, with double sided tape. When closing the shell it will have a good contact, I had no problems in all runs:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wGAjTljqZ6qcENd9V-_kTKXphp-DGD5wWqK4mG11DySNHY-_bP1nYQ4I5FSEEPivZbxJrI7ytrQhfOeIxFemwDOpNqygf-DhRtz_dsWNKW9qp7b1JALFVUjITiFX3znDc51Wr6eYPA/s1600/DSC_1336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wGAjTljqZ6qcENd9V-_kTKXphp-DGD5wWqK4mG11DySNHY-_bP1nYQ4I5FSEEPivZbxJrI7ytrQhfOeIxFemwDOpNqygf-DhRtz_dsWNKW9qp7b1JALFVUjITiFX3znDc51Wr6eYPA/s320/DSC_1336.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And now for the head and tail cars, find a decoder able to switch the current depending on the direction, because Microace light boards are to heavy to modify. I'm not able to flip the led position as you would normally do in any other model. I used a cheap LaisDCC decoder:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipm_hsJ6T2dZwCq-Bh0Bru5tKEmUPAW7XtOnyB4yVa5tKnZktfXc2BoQx-lruJRfiy7vKuI2Rm0MOvbAEzg1cgemlyRZDKVkKYFpDAPguyGBePKqdLmmksS88YiTviE5yceMnGtfp-OQ/s1600/DSC_1339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipm_hsJ6T2dZwCq-Bh0Bru5tKEmUPAW7XtOnyB4yVa5tKnZktfXc2BoQx-lruJRfiy7vKuI2Rm0MOvbAEzg1cgemlyRZDKVkKYFpDAPguyGBePKqdLmmksS88YiTviE5yceMnGtfp-OQ/s320/DSC_1339.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxY1fvUU8uaH4cZrGSGzzrpHBkdbdVMDoJdvHNzp273aOj1KEJSdwMQlzDZZO9IkhyphenhyphenK2_ZGBziZJD-IobZq23SKuP0jKVeEYh8uYI8Jh0MBbJN1jIvu4wd_kNIfYkaFNT3QqjmMg_WgA/s1600/DSC_1340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxY1fvUU8uaH4cZrGSGzzrpHBkdbdVMDoJdvHNzp273aOj1KEJSdwMQlzDZZO9IkhyphenhyphenK2_ZGBziZJD-IobZq23SKuP0jKVeEYh8uYI8Jh0MBbJN1jIvu4wd_kNIfYkaFNT3QqjmMg_WgA/s320/DSC_1340.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I cut the leads that take the current for the light board and solder the motor wires in that place. LaisDCC decoders can be configured in a way that the motor wires can be used for lighting, and depending on the travel direction they invert the polarity so red or white led will light (same principle as if running in analog track). Red and black wires were tinned and inserted in place as you see in the photo, no need to solder them fixed to the pick up current plates:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WyCRJq-LttxQtFa0w9LeBWQZ_5InZvqZd_rL5W2TyQeZEFtnsCbDFk-KAkg-QOLpiBOjov2qlz3IxwOuTBNcGeuTSK_OHWisppu9MMTWSx6c-eVDnMwWw_ccWuZ4YQLvrgTkoPGIKw/s1600/DSC_1345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1600" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WyCRJq-LttxQtFa0w9LeBWQZ_5InZvqZd_rL5W2TyQeZEFtnsCbDFk-KAkg-QOLpiBOjov2qlz3IxwOuTBNcGeuTSK_OHWisppu9MMTWSx6c-eVDnMwWw_ccWuZ4YQLvrgTkoPGIKw/s320/DSC_1345.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the final result, enjoy it!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jmfsjm6NEurtVxsUn3SjcJCscA_19x9dY4dZ6Y2Unp3-meGFa9nZc4m3Jv40Gejayrp6nH2JHbEQtlEkCRNH30YmGZpaPF-kly7HISVV57ddTZazkxAMMAVNVNhQkG-BYiawt9C-8A/s1600/DSC_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jmfsjm6NEurtVxsUn3SjcJCscA_19x9dY4dZ6Y2Unp3-meGFa9nZc4m3Jv40Gejayrp6nH2JHbEQtlEkCRNH30YmGZpaPF-kly7HISVV57ddTZazkxAMMAVNVNhQkG-BYiawt9C-8A/s320/DSC_1342.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9U6nNylH2mpeKHGNGAsiviX5rtRdyh8doHM-wznzRpEtgA9cOXQeXAYFt7tOfmm9aCUJ8FvlXj-MMZ27lnZs7ijlwbIAaT3fyjGY7fnOCqLIF6hhJm7c3uOiwAJipcFZSlhF0eUKKg/s1600/DSC_1343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9U6nNylH2mpeKHGNGAsiviX5rtRdyh8doHM-wznzRpEtgA9cOXQeXAYFt7tOfmm9aCUJ8FvlXj-MMZ27lnZs7ijlwbIAaT3fyjGY7fnOCqLIF6hhJm7c3uOiwAJipcFZSlhF0eUKKg/s320/DSC_1343.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-25211329537139343852019-04-14T19:54:00.000+02:002019-04-14T19:59:19.555+02:00KATO 10-431 Seibu E851 Cement Train<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
This is a standard Kato electric locomotive dcc conversion. It has the old board with cooper tracks only in one side and there is no need of difficult modifications to this board. Using a tiny decoder, <a href="https://shop.decoders.es/index.php?_route_=decoders/de-locomotora/cables/doehler-haass-pd05a-3.html" target="_blank">Doehler&Haas PD05A-3</a> in my case, there is no need of sanding and fits perfectly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh32fzbAsPZqpuLjxXUtgYJNw8SAFRA-JTnOGQiNDNLeVnegslFOc_DlrWZdDt9cTx7-wv4aXZRrldGjBZXqtWJnyx93QsrIifpfgZVOAyMqrHtP6zStnYad-HBEk9gagYMvOEo0irM5A/s1600/DSC_1299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh32fzbAsPZqpuLjxXUtgYJNw8SAFRA-JTnOGQiNDNLeVnegslFOc_DlrWZdDt9cTx7-wv4aXZRrldGjBZXqtWJnyx93QsrIifpfgZVOAyMqrHtP6zStnYad-HBEk9gagYMvOEo0irM5A/s320/DSC_1299.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The only modification to the board are:</div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">Remove the capacitor in one side of the board. It will have no effect when leds are connected to the decoder</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Keep the positive lead of each led connected to the track feed by the central resistor. For this, leads of the left led must be swapped</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Do not solder or cut the negative lead of the led, as this will be connected to the white or yellow wires of the decoder.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioe6tF2KEMe8_wQ2hq0sUwfk2VNMatkhNkI1Pz-RSaXLLQfQPREitXsAHcoaVq-jb-Gj_8yJ3x_ovxOOTZNSIEJRkqwpkdMi5Zs5y6SNVZAXypTjGMiP0wiYjC6QJ5GK4oIzHeP9IIHw/s1600/DSC_1300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="1579" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioe6tF2KEMe8_wQ2hq0sUwfk2VNMatkhNkI1Pz-RSaXLLQfQPREitXsAHcoaVq-jb-Gj_8yJ3x_ovxOOTZNSIEJRkqwpkdMi5Zs5y6SNVZAXypTjGMiP0wiYjC6QJ5GK4oIzHeP9IIHw/s320/DSC_1300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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First of all remember to isolate the cooper plates in the position were they are in contact with the motor plates. I use Kapton tape for this.</div>
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Then I placed the decoder in the center of the board with double sided tape. In this position, it fits exactly in the interior free space of the shell. Having the decoder in place, cut wires as shorter as possible and solder them to the right points as you can see in the photo.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSYyzTYgsIo8iD-JwEVkDxNqRoOcQupmQ16g0YBKyt1LyQ9VQG52X_rq_7fVu9e3YuE_OWhBT-Qx6LSageyAdzAnIHnHi4qbsdpd_zonInnA4XYl9yMQ7acKK5oYTroCqHBzYYNpx_g/s1600/DSC_1304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="1579" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSYyzTYgsIo8iD-JwEVkDxNqRoOcQupmQ16g0YBKyt1LyQ9VQG52X_rq_7fVu9e3YuE_OWhBT-Qx6LSageyAdzAnIHnHi4qbsdpd_zonInnA4XYl9yMQ7acKK5oYTroCqHBzYYNpx_g/s320/DSC_1304.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are no more things to explain, images are quite self-explanatory, if not, write in the comments any doubt.</div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-40561208353103040992019-02-05T20:10:00.000+01:002019-09-05T20:10:33.455+02:00Kato 7008-7 DD51-500 Middle Model Cold Specifications DCC ConversionIf you use the right decoder, this means the small enough decoder, this is a nice DCC conversion. In my case I had to use a PD05 decoder from Doehler & Haas. Knowing where to cut the cooper tracks and the solder points, it will be easy to perform:<br />
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The board will need several modifications as you can check in the following photos:</div>
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<ol>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Remove the clips of the cooper pieces that pass current to the motor, isolate them with Kapton tape and place them again in place</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Remove the capacitor to avoid problems with DCC operation (blue arrow)</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Cut the cooper tracks as indicated in the following photo with the red arrows</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Solder the decoder wires in place and do not forget to bridge the led with the right cooper track (check the red short wire in the left of the board as shown in the photo)</li>
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Decoder must fit under the green plastic piece and you cannot skip this plastic piece because it isolates the motor from the track current. Remember, DO NOT TEST IT IF THE GREEN PLASTIC PIECE IS NOT IN PLACE.</div>
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Enjoy!!Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-18622923308712078402019-01-13T20:01:00.000+01:002019-09-02T20:43:55.161+02:00KATO 10-1519 クルーズトレイン ななつ星 in 九州 DCC Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: start;">Here we have an impressive, expensive, must have model from Kato: Cruise Train Seven Stars in Kyushu.</span></div>
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A so special model, that it even has its own and exclusive web page: <a href="https://www.kato-sevenstars.com/">https://www.kato-sevenstars.com/</a><br />
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Digitalization is not easy, even though Kato specifies it is a DCC Friendly model. The truth is that it is only DCC Friendly for he head and tail car, because locomotive needs a wired decoder and some work to adapt the light board.<br />
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Head and tail cars have an almost unnoticeable hatch in the bottom to fit the FL12 decoder needed. Just be careful if you open the shell to install the lighting kit from Kato because it's a little bit tricky to close keeping the transparent pieces of the head/tail lights in place. You will see in some of the following photos how the lighting is not perfect. I had to open that car and close it again very carefully, taking care that light pieces keep in their place.<br />
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About the motor car, is a quite common digitalization of a Kato electric locomotive. It has a led lights board that needs some modifications. But the lights are SMD components and it is not possible to remove one of them and solder it again reversed. This is the normal intervention when you deal with a normal led (not smd) light board.<br />
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In this case, as we cannot modify the led lights, it is better to modify and reroute cooper tracks to feed both leds with the current crossing the resistor and isolate the negative lead of each led to connect the decoder wires:<br />
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In my case this is what I did:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Red arrow: cut the track (3 places)</li>
<li>Blue arrow: bridge the cooper tracks</li>
<li>Yellow square: this is the capacitor that you have to simply remove</li>
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Then you can solder the decoder wires as seen in the following photo. I used a ZIMO MX616 decoder. I like this decoder much more than Doehler & Haass or Digitrax ones for three reasons:<br />
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<ol>
<li>They are REALLY small, and come already isolated</li>
<li>Wires are thinner and much more malleable than other decos</li>
<li>Motor control is much more smooth and has more adjustment setting</li>
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I hope you can also enjoy this beautiful model:<br />
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-3629300387834326802018-11-18T17:17:00.002+01:002018-11-18T19:18:21.199+01:00Testing Peter Giling GCA50_AN for Arduino NANO<h2>
GCA50_AN BOARD FEATURES</h2>
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Hi All! In this post I'm not showing more digitalizations, basically because I run out of decoders.... but I have a more interesting issue: the new board from Peter Giling GCA50_AN<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsJkYMXsqM3iLl6k1GjktkT4vMwz9Tfks44uqIHqLBujQuy3LXW9hC36ROl32V1n8_1IdRw9RPmq055V84YSjdra4VdT_U17VRN4ZCR03H2GdMZPHobNsFklCVKxYVdVWmkcV5nQL6Q/s1600/DSC_0657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsJkYMXsqM3iLl6k1GjktkT4vMwz9Tfks44uqIHqLBujQuy3LXW9hC36ROl32V1n8_1IdRw9RPmq055V84YSjdra4VdT_U17VRN4ZCR03H2GdMZPHobNsFklCVKxYVdVWmkcV5nQL6Q/s320/DSC_0657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And what is this board used for? Basically it is a Loconet interface for Arduino NANO. Probably you saw in older posts the board GCA185. You can check as an example how to build a 8 servo module with frog polarization and turnout feedback using that Loconet interface and Arduino UNO:</div>
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<a href="http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/03/arduino-8-servos-module-with-feedback.html">http://www.clubncaldes.com/2016/03/arduino-8-servos-module-with-feedback.html</a></div>
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It's basically the same board but instead of being an standard Arduino UNO shield shaped board, it is a base board for Arduino NANO giving you the same functionalities:</div>
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- Power source to arduino via Loconet</div>
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- Sub DB9 and RJ12 connections to Loconet</div>
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- J5 and J6 connectors for standard Giling driver boards connection</div>
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It can be used as substitution of the old GCA50 board, but having Arduino connected to your Loconet bus and being able to receive and send any Loconet command, you can build any type of device: throttles, sound modules, illumination, turnout control, automation, signaling...</div>
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Club N Caldes has all the system based in two of the most famous standards (DCC and Loconet), but everything implemented in Open Source and Open Hardware platforms like Arduino.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-s6RznXUmK4MLtaZR-HoRgNEWGVF6WnwM3WdRhG_Qs5_oMXRWcYxCoZngtuJXC30ZclCFQ_wKKjQ3_i954cgwAd8iGziCic3tLj7fddrQgW4riBZ8FkmYHep7ck5izffrexoegmQVzw/s1600/DSC_0659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1349" data-original-width="1600" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-s6RznXUmK4MLtaZR-HoRgNEWGVF6WnwM3WdRhG_Qs5_oMXRWcYxCoZngtuJXC30ZclCFQ_wKKjQ3_i954cgwAd8iGziCic3tLj7fddrQgW4riBZ8FkmYHep7ck5izffrexoegmQVzw/s320/DSC_0659.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This board has also an extra feature: it fits in a Littfinsky LDT-1 box like GCA51:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakjLATJR-enBuNDJRn958MOIsfwFesTINYyvzSWkjxOfhx59vLZnyc3Y0l2jCkQIXzk5UYVx4vLBCr7MIcu3iQPmxNuGlcJ2pnjs-0ZyXSMkI41MgGmw1AesZAKcFysBX8va1MQUbxA/s1600/gca51_pict03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="900" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakjLATJR-enBuNDJRn958MOIsfwFesTINYyvzSWkjxOfhx59vLZnyc3Y0l2jCkQIXzk5UYVx4vLBCr7MIcu3iQPmxNuGlcJ2pnjs-0ZyXSMkI41MgGmw1AesZAKcFysBX8va1MQUbxA/s320/gca51_pict03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see how I tested the board connected to two of the most used boards form Peter Giling: GCA93 ( 8 port current detector) and GCA77 (Interface for turnout coils and illumination):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bvddw_lSrvUWktOCvcUUV0zJsF-9j2Uzf1jOMDxJU8tBiko_su3-dmIqhegSe0fSkyZnHm78t7eGAvfDTJcyQBZw4jUve75bG3-nN8yC4hoy5ix72-SmtDshmaNH2zzDZNl7OKnalQ/s1600/DSC_0660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1039" data-original-width="1600" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bvddw_lSrvUWktOCvcUUV0zJsF-9j2Uzf1jOMDxJU8tBiko_su3-dmIqhegSe0fSkyZnHm78t7eGAvfDTJcyQBZw4jUve75bG3-nN8yC4hoy5ix72-SmtDshmaNH2zzDZNl7OKnalQ/s320/DSC_0660.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Make sure the jumper is properly set, depending on how you connect the board to loconet (using the DB9 connectors or RJ12):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeW6oy_JiRQdoTr6vkO_NSnk9aojXrVwpTtH27yNeKROyDVQ0W21p-Iq_E7ltjvuIQCoMNgq5YRZHvLGst25Wqi65OUKMU0f46341PIOIYW5JpPD52u49mRdsO9wbdCM1C6u8lEaRYg/s1600/DSC_0662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeW6oy_JiRQdoTr6vkO_NSnk9aojXrVwpTtH27yNeKROyDVQ0W21p-Iq_E7ltjvuIQCoMNgq5YRZHvLGst25Wqi65OUKMU0f46341PIOIYW5JpPD52u49mRdsO9wbdCM1C6u8lEaRYg/s320/DSC_0662.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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HOW TO PROGRAM AND SET UP THE ARDUINO</h2>
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First of all you will need to upload the desired firmware to the Arduino NANO board. In this case, the example is with the SVLocoIO firmware which is the firmware we created in Club N Caldes as the standard module for illumination control and sensor feedback. You can download it freely from the <a href="https://github.com/clubncaldes" target="_blank">public GitHub of Club N Caldes</a>:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYM12IahyphenhyphenzWdpapg_-ub3pL_nuhTP4hxQrnIQwrjfKmnYFwqC-YNO4kvnOwr5pugx9hT_a_WzTveiODMKo_KqKCNCQS-Uua_B63pArz-KWT_hKu6tt3X8jT54ECnIRL30lUTmVoRKrkA/s1600/download.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="924" data-original-width="1050" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYM12IahyphenhyphenzWdpapg_-ub3pL_nuhTP4hxQrnIQwrjfKmnYFwqC-YNO4kvnOwr5pugx9hT_a_WzTveiODMKo_KqKCNCQS-Uua_B63pArz-KWT_hKu6tt3X8jT54ECnIRL30lUTmVoRKrkA/s320/download.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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After you downloaded it, open the sketch (<i>sketch </i>is the name used in "Arduino" terminology for the programs or firmwares) from the Arduino environment:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi659F0LqkT8zDNx18gR-A9TocyFUk-KLE1-3u93T2j8CRmB25PZOpUVmpr_5i6drV9skpxLwyy-zK0zg8EM-1lbm5_4WVJCKWr9PniVaEGmxBXjTVxDfzLrhEhLGCbjxZEyOyPX0cWzg/s1600/opensketch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="940" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi659F0LqkT8zDNx18gR-A9TocyFUk-KLE1-3u93T2j8CRmB25PZOpUVmpr_5i6drV9skpxLwyy-zK0zg8EM-1lbm5_4WVJCKWr9PniVaEGmxBXjTVxDfzLrhEhLGCbjxZEyOyPX0cWzg/s320/opensketch.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Make sure the line of code below is commented or directly deleted to use the software with GCA50_AN or GCA185 boards:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lUPbzeuElwujTYPdo5UBUYlegAT3ZbK-Fm3csFmjkF8Ik0mqsGmxrZUQMYq9SwQHxMUQV4tDcuvuEG4iEslmBvtKhX2KwCmcgFDpCJH7Obua7l3np9LS70Whbuh81eIhMjxk15U-pQ/s1600/adjustcode.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="942" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lUPbzeuElwujTYPdo5UBUYlegAT3ZbK-Fm3csFmjkF8Ik0mqsGmxrZUQMYq9SwQHxMUQV4tDcuvuEG4iEslmBvtKhX2KwCmcgFDpCJH7Obua7l3np9LS70Whbuh81eIhMjxk15U-pQ/s320/adjustcode.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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If your module was not connected yet to the computer, it's time to do it now using the USB cable. It doesn't matter if your module is also connected to the Loconet network or not, and you don't need to unplug the Arduino from the base board or disconnect anything, everything is safe.</div>
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Check in your Arduino environment that Arduino NANO board is selected and the right USB Serial port appears and it is checked:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7lM3wAnFqwcy4qhi0-g6bJdtxgV5qnNOe1UzWDyIOVb0Kp1niyhbyDXX4KwpZGJaYNupRS9XrVw03St9k2kgHm8itlVdoycBET_GgwyMrQSEmhRldSfMfDrbVfMs08mthYROojiiHw/s1600/selectnano.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="941" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7lM3wAnFqwcy4qhi0-g6bJdtxgV5qnNOe1UzWDyIOVb0Kp1niyhbyDXX4KwpZGJaYNupRS9XrVw03St9k2kgHm8itlVdoycBET_GgwyMrQSEmhRldSfMfDrbVfMs08mthYROojiiHw/s320/selectnano.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcmxUIDc_ciqvRrrgvJetjqqXtUqr-f7_s58e6YX-qsmHPUahE66_kdAnqNc6MOpSG2tMk60wPQ05gOM7ejUkBnqtnSLgME4_GOZZ0hjiPb_R2gDkNr0ohFzHkZJuK8YdmgJCJgCeog/s1600/selectport.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="942" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcmxUIDc_ciqvRrrgvJetjqqXtUqr-f7_s58e6YX-qsmHPUahE66_kdAnqNc6MOpSG2tMk60wPQ05gOM7ejUkBnqtnSLgME4_GOZZ0hjiPb_R2gDkNr0ohFzHkZJuK8YdmgJCJgCeog/s320/selectport.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you can select the Upload function from the Sketch menu or click the second button with the right arrow symbol from the tool strip menu. If everything goes ok, it will show the message "Done uploading" in the bottom strip, ignore the rest of messages:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxInyT9UmTIYFTP23Mzh1If7_ZJQeuRplQYhCYjBK9q96Nw5XES9YBUpc8TrT0hNkyBF9aV5UihiGZQLKws4PlZmEi2URIZ_UuTEZI484naArl5J97VwX-a_YUVWsiGiBLTgVpzaJWA/s1600/uploaddone.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="942" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxInyT9UmTIYFTP23Mzh1If7_ZJQeuRplQYhCYjBK9q96Nw5XES9YBUpc8TrT0hNkyBF9aV5UihiGZQLKws4PlZmEi2URIZ_UuTEZI484naArl5J97VwX-a_YUVWsiGiBLTgVpzaJWA/s320/uploaddone.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I assume now that your GCA50_AN board is properly connected to your Loconet network and Rocrail is also running and connected to your layout. To set up the module functions, select the GCA50 configuration option from the "Programming" menu:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgQmjXh7Kz0_Lk_Jw4F4oQQbcsYQCnlTnrLEZKAh1bREFixeIjMyQqveXiciFACBv05dyGsAa7tll7dXWD-3yFaxq1LJ5cHVmwlWMVK5KNP562pkwvu8qbJjGIjuqGebM-Q6N_xmBqg/s1600/gca50prog.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="747" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgQmjXh7Kz0_Lk_Jw4F4oQQbcsYQCnlTnrLEZKAh1bREFixeIjMyQqveXiciFACBv05dyGsAa7tll7dXWD-3yFaxq1LJ5cHVmwlWMVK5KNP562pkwvu8qbJjGIjuqGebM-Q6N_xmBqg/s320/gca50prog.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Clicking the Query button from the Addresses tab it should appear the module 081/001, this is the standard address for any new module (that you should change immediately to avoid conflicts with a new connected board):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8klOTJstPbU201MWJ7DaoTJtlRh0Je0-1AkUsBJiu1LCIRC70uJ-6hrhUAUUkeHpqsBhBg-0h9_R4bjBMtkDIZWaYKaA8QbCDnpItdM3Z1tMT2bJgalPp8bf73MBrn-vLAFyfqoj4g/s1600/query.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="869" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8klOTJstPbU201MWJ7DaoTJtlRh0Je0-1AkUsBJiu1LCIRC70uJ-6hrhUAUUkeHpqsBhBg-0h9_R4bjBMtkDIZWaYKaA8QbCDnpItdM3Z1tMT2bJgalPp8bf73MBrn-vLAFyfqoj4g/s320/query.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the Easy Setup tab you can read the current configuration clicking the button Get All, and change any configuration and save it again to the board with the Set All button. The configuration you see in the following screen is the right one needed for the GCA77 and GCA93 driver boards as connected in the previous photos: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCa6BvUDCxOxCvxASuH_m_TMdWlKg8PfoLSFewNAhQnX_34q7LCbVXgN0GQFHN4GM-EKfnkJ8Rdgmpq1CpJiWeXQ7DGTh6yfZg1yVPK8TdeM4teh1ll6g0IY8kZzdrY-FfowArvLskfg/s1600/configgca50.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1152" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCa6BvUDCxOxCvxASuH_m_TMdWlKg8PfoLSFewNAhQnX_34q7LCbVXgN0GQFHN4GM-EKfnkJ8Rdgmpq1CpJiWeXQ7DGTh6yfZg1yVPK8TdeM4teh1ll6g0IY8kZzdrY-FfowArvLskfg/s320/configgca50.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Using the test button of the last port, you can see the board responds illuminating the test led I connected:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6xe-qqUJvlsi69yBTqQWkWRZlAtxVOT0y1uUDaKGGzmpmBbWnVeYLHIbaAFOOU-Shcwqow8Q-W4P6ISlZKkWvk_IOwixWkHnxbWeIdvx9jWPoihptD7a5SdEtZSP5ikIeLQYIH-C3w/s1600/DSC_0664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6xe-qqUJvlsi69yBTqQWkWRZlAtxVOT0y1uUDaKGGzmpmBbWnVeYLHIbaAFOOU-Shcwqow8Q-W4P6ISlZKkWvk_IOwixWkHnxbWeIdvx9jWPoihptD7a5SdEtZSP5ikIeLQYIH-C3w/s320/DSC_0664.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Thank Peter Giling for your work, and congratulations for another excellent board which allows all railroad modellers who believe in Open Source Communities and like DIY to implement standard and professional digital buses in their layouts. Same greetings for <a href="http://www.rocrail.net/" target="_blank">Rocrail </a>people and <a href="https://mrrwa.org/" target="_blank">MRRwA </a>for the Loconet libraries for Arduino and everybody supporting these groups.<br />
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Like always, you can order this and any other board directly to Peter Giling sending and email. All information and prices are in the following link:<br />
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<a href="https://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=gca:gca-index-en" target="_blank">Click here for Peter Giling hardware page</a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-79177703736421858652018-11-17T20:04:00.001+01:002018-11-17T20:04:36.656+01:00Kato 3043 EF64-0 <div style="text-align: center;">
The Class EF64 (EF64形) is a 6-axle (Bo-Bo-Bo wheel arrangement) DC electric locomotive type operated on passenger and freight services in Japan since 1964. This is an old model from Kato, easy to convert to DCC as there is room enough for any thin decoder without the need of sanding or cutting the housing:</div>
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First of all isolate the motor plates and strips using Kapton tape:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIi_mT8r8mdnR7-si-KvEzzXQQA36dKJNG3tkXIVd0K1fMipaVP2TQbHIUsHSMdKE62duJs21xargbfVZia2u5TNucLp-1NM1MHXbFTewzed_tNZA2q_7gwR5CTIwM3SVakuSGKGPmDA/s1600/DSC_0626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIi_mT8r8mdnR7-si-KvEzzXQQA36dKJNG3tkXIVd0K1fMipaVP2TQbHIUsHSMdKE62duJs21xargbfVZia2u5TNucLp-1NM1MHXbFTewzed_tNZA2q_7gwR5CTIwM3SVakuSGKGPmDA/s320/DSC_0626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cut the positive leads of led that will be soldered to the function wires of the decoder:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkeliEsTVInLOxvRNNuO6TqMpZzVf9C04reGsnDzRiPIZcNJ5RwVr41aoyGv3oahk4ktUQpaM7Y9WkN7hZfHTRPg2Ja2DWSiWaUN7bzPgzJ9m6jmM0mWXuC3szXVNZ7tGwwfeRWBGjQ/s1600/cortes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="1563" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkeliEsTVInLOxvRNNuO6TqMpZzVf9C04reGsnDzRiPIZcNJ5RwVr41aoyGv3oahk4ktUQpaM7Y9WkN7hZfHTRPg2Ja2DWSiWaUN7bzPgzJ9m6jmM0mWXuC3szXVNZ7tGwwfeRWBGjQ/s320/cortes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fix the decoder in place with double sided tape and route the wires to solder, in the photo you can check the exact position of each one:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGU8TAUZW0g9xLNNVTTPfEIxztWnTatVgkpN1wiwgeXoUef51ktTXb_BmB-0xKv7L-xFWxLM-K6Eeh-gTI_Xp0ksG_CrmPXQqoJLSrZ8e2hqZLsiQtytUs1mq4QogqeE2OLYPCjaJLw/s1600/DSC_0636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGU8TAUZW0g9xLNNVTTPfEIxztWnTatVgkpN1wiwgeXoUef51ktTXb_BmB-0xKv7L-xFWxLM-K6Eeh-gTI_Xp0ksG_CrmPXQqoJLSrZ8e2hqZLsiQtytUs1mq4QogqeE2OLYPCjaJLw/s320/DSC_0636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Done!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9wdMfqw6580f5enHguGlvc3HYaRSzSFxb_JpfZhDzvtJcnZbcRdnEq_-K71N0JV708EseQnLD1_7QAvqBlcv-ut0erndsrX-0vmhHVdskSP51PCkzKVMscpEH_2xF0B4_ZF61ayC4g/s1600/DSC_0638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9wdMfqw6580f5enHguGlvc3HYaRSzSFxb_JpfZhDzvtJcnZbcRdnEq_-K71N0JV708EseQnLD1_7QAvqBlcv-ut0erndsrX-0vmhHVdskSP51PCkzKVMscpEH_2xF0B4_ZF61ayC4g/s320/DSC_0638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5520685136503832.post-78871749844332467512018-11-17T19:10:00.002+01:002018-11-17T20:07:00.448+01:00Kato 2027 C50 50th Anniversary DCC conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I was afraid of converting this beautiful locomotive to DCC, but I don't want to have my trains static in a display cabinet. This is the most detailed Kato locomotive I've ever seen, an special edition of the 50th anniversary that comes with a nice box, booklet and DVD:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoztRohR9BrTSMbw1UvYKLdWiyExQf9g6XQOjWG-ronQLGgt9KAx_rbZpfKCkMBCz_uqYPY3YyHf05xqXU4yw49cXX0S0xj5WgxhDdeOrlDiAyOnQwSy3dWq78Qi6E41eZFSRAn11cmA/s1600/C50kato.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="1091" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoztRohR9BrTSMbw1UvYKLdWiyExQf9g6XQOjWG-ronQLGgt9KAx_rbZpfKCkMBCz_uqYPY3YyHf05xqXU4yw49cXX0S0xj5WgxhDdeOrlDiAyOnQwSy3dWq78Qi6E41eZFSRAn11cmA/s320/C50kato.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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To open the locomotive, everything is clipped. You don't need to unscrew anything, but for better understanding on how to open it check the following web page that has nice self explaining pictures. Doesn't matter if you don't understand Japanese:</div>
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<a href="https://jun-papa.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2016-05-03" target="_blank">https://jun-papa.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2016-05-03</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoK_DLARHgaG9QLTIxS3UFRKQ76QhyphenhyphenezcwUkE3nvStMHm6e3Or8RNLj_v4LhE8fTGdiuhuBy-hRSecYQm_XN8ANC7Korn0SMr5t9X-mcHQPztiR2AgAIMYjEHGeDk4UsAK_0B71PWJA/s1600/DSC_0575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="1600" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoK_DLARHgaG9QLTIxS3UFRKQ76QhyphenhyphenezcwUkE3nvStMHm6e3Or8RNLj_v4LhE8fTGdiuhuBy-hRSecYQm_XN8ANC7Korn0SMr5t9X-mcHQPztiR2AgAIMYjEHGeDk4UsAK_0B71PWJA/s320/DSC_0575.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Isolating the motor is as easy as cutting or desoldering the wires:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihdagFWOsrd9qslK4UVjUnrkh9_41jbxthYDddB8zGCP-V7LRi7UOyxtHe64vJAIzAdQ6NhtIy_IwIfoHOuw7ofyE-vR9Swk4aTGTFU3jiHsai9oByo4om4XrN6qC4XLhAF75qKQTd6Q/s1600/DSC_0578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihdagFWOsrd9qslK4UVjUnrkh9_41jbxthYDddB8zGCP-V7LRi7UOyxtHe64vJAIzAdQ6NhtIy_IwIfoHOuw7ofyE-vR9Swk4aTGTFU3jiHsai9oByo4om4XrN6qC4XLhAF75qKQTd6Q/s320/DSC_0578.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And you have plenty of space inside the tender, you can use almost any small N scale decoder and there is a hole to pass the wires to the main body:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUgCCsvdHfEdSdJxhZbL5qQqdgA1TnhXJWlL7CLT6RNvLRK78uptQteb4aIBbMhyphenhyphenmTpcpYeCIteYb13brl6LtN1YOuAeWVC6-8cyL7CfFRWwjnzfNzn0FI_uX_n7DQgDXehvwXdjkYg/s1600/DSC_0581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1070" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUgCCsvdHfEdSdJxhZbL5qQqdgA1TnhXJWlL7CLT6RNvLRK78uptQteb4aIBbMhyphenhyphenmTpcpYeCIteYb13brl6LtN1YOuAeWVC6-8cyL7CfFRWwjnzfNzn0FI_uX_n7DQgDXehvwXdjkYg/s320/DSC_0581.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Trim the motor wires to the right size and solder them to the motor wires:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZiTOGkmzq1SnmoO50JupYDnPt2RjyFnSvb9YPQHKMuFTS-MYuzpcOqSHllgVCgIGvSAaiKQKzC7ku8o9UutwCJVCCvaxQLJm90IZE8NfNPHDtcWDcQxOoopjihmTA5rU_lx0H81e_g/s1600/DSC_0582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1115" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZiTOGkmzq1SnmoO50JupYDnPt2RjyFnSvb9YPQHKMuFTS-MYuzpcOqSHllgVCgIGvSAaiKQKzC7ku8o9UutwCJVCCvaxQLJm90IZE8NfNPHDtcWDcQxOoopjihmTA5rU_lx0H81e_g/s320/DSC_0582.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
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Do not forget to isolate it with Kapton tape or heat shrink:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdhEgbT4Jh3aaXXfcN8WQxo1QJOodBaT6Ac9wQhwB9fgvPBCDWNpW8RSX_aKs0WbYNA4pp64oVe1JZ4qztAT8CwOAoXkWQZP6oUVcx1RcypT4aRqBgQll0V6VOmNqjWj3kjxTvnEkQA/s1600/DSC_0583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1115" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdhEgbT4Jh3aaXXfcN8WQxo1QJOodBaT6Ac9wQhwB9fgvPBCDWNpW8RSX_aKs0WbYNA4pp64oVe1JZ4qztAT8CwOAoXkWQZP6oUVcx1RcypT4aRqBgQll0V6VOmNqjWj3kjxTvnEkQA/s320/DSC_0583.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
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Current wires can be soldered to the little cooper plate as seen in the following photo. You will have to scratch this plate with any sharpened tool to allow tin to stick on:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhco9OrCbocD1RjMoxXyiHICMb2xJllI5U8hEU4R8BpOHPnAu9mURDkUzclofTUEF03j2nkgQlJ6Dx4X3YTn43SnPUbU2lF570qkviOzFwPGcRrBqqaCo0JF5BMDthj7-j4MUv9j2odgg/s1600/DSC_0586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1233" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhco9OrCbocD1RjMoxXyiHICMb2xJllI5U8hEU4R8BpOHPnAu9mURDkUzclofTUEF03j2nkgQlJ6Dx4X3YTn43SnPUbU2lF570qkviOzFwPGcRrBqqaCo0JF5BMDthj7-j4MUv9j2odgg/s320/DSC_0586.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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And there is almost nothing more to do!!! Just one more note (I don't have photos of this step, sorry!) but I had to trim a little bit the shell to be able to close it as there is not enough space for the motor wires:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTAmlmxclv7XIrOoJf7kA82JkmNFRMcvzUZUufw0rdef3cnIvpj-EWYHJN6MLYjDVGbijm7NWWkq69jZgpkp5qXs-0vRrRk2K6JBJdmesIqySvwBVdg2wBcc3pUgvVu3SqUgpZ6aw3A/s1600/DSC_0592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTAmlmxclv7XIrOoJf7kA82JkmNFRMcvzUZUufw0rdef3cnIvpj-EWYHJN6MLYjDVGbijm7NWWkq69jZgpkp5qXs-0vRrRk2K6JBJdmesIqySvwBVdg2wBcc3pUgvVu3SqUgpZ6aw3A/s400/DSC_0592.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Dani - ClubNCaldeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07931160913934482487noreply@blogger.com0