I recently bought this model, but I think it was originally released in 2010. It's a DCC Friendly model, so DCC Conversion is straight forward.
About interior lighting kits I recommend Kato 11-214. These ones are warm white, not so white as Kato 11-212. I tried also 11-212, but I changed all to 11-214.
Cab and end car decoder fits very well, easier and smoother that other models:
About motor decoder, make sure you use Kapton tape to isolate it. I burned more that one because the body is metallic, and if the decoder gets in contact with the metallic part it instantaneously burns. So now I always do it doesn't matter the train model:
I must say I'm a little bit disappointed with this model. First reason is that windows detach on their own, so open the car upside down and keep the hull in this position to insert the methacrylate piece of the lighting kit and to close it.
Second thing is that top front and rear bogies derails in any curve. Seems like they don't pivot easily, so I had to pivot them several times with my fingers until they were able to turn smoothly.
Finally, it runs well and with 12 illuminated cars it looks impressive:
This model is "DCC friendly" as written in the instruction manual, but you will find that head and tail cars have no under hatch to put the usual FL12 decoder (or I couldn't find it!). Instead, you have to open and disassemble the seats plastic piece:
I had to remove two cooper strips acting as springs to insert the decoder, and then put them again in place. Be patient, these springs are not easy to put again in place keeping the decoder and the long cooper strips in place. So it's a little bit tricky and seems not secure, but after putting the sits and closing everything everything works well so far.
About lighting, every car has its own light panel so will not need the plastic panels that comes with kato lighting kits:
Motor car is like any other DCC Friendly model:
It's nice that every car has a special light panel or diffuser, and the decoration of each car is also exquisite. The big windows allow to see perfectly and enjoy the interiors.
I hope you enjoyed it and that you find the way to install the cab and end car decoders easier than me!!
I finished my first sound project using an ESU sound decoder, in this case a LokSound 5 Nano. First of all I have to admit that there is no competence for ESU sound decoders. First of all the decoder comes complete with his speaker already soldered and a very smart way to make the soundbox, with different sized plastic pieces that you glue together to make the soundbox as much taller as the available space.
But it's not only about how well packaged it is, the sound is incredible, really powerful and with no distortion. The decoder is wired for 6 functions, the motor control is smooth and precise, and it has tons of parameters to adjust effects, intensities, sound parameters, random sounds, events,... just awesome!!!
You pay for it, but it really beats any competence.
But let's start the work. First of all open the locomotive and unclip the motor. The motor has two small metallic pieces that won't be used (see them in the second photo, next to the motor):
I started soldering the motor wires as you can see in the following photo:
Then glue the soundbox. I used the tallest piece from the kit for that. I could have added an extra piece and make it bigger as there is room enough, but just with that it sounds amazing. There is a place where the speaker fits perfectly fixed, so I didn't use glue nor double sided tape:
I saw the lights quite difficult to connect, as the board has no place in the visible side to solder and it is completely fixed to the body frame. It has an extra car that would need also its own decoder or extend the function wires to this car, so you cannot detach it again. Finally I decided I would do a very simple conversion connecting only the motor and sound, lights will be always lit on. Here you can see it from both sides to check the connections:
So that's it, it was hard enough to learn how to make a sound project, find original Preiser & Theurer sounds... don't expect a complicated conversion with extra lights and effects. :)
For the sound project I started from the ESU Class 66/77 / EMD JT42CWR Sound Project (http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/search?q=Class+66%2F77+%2F+EMD+JT42CWR) as the motor seemed to me to be the closest one, and then added original Plasser & Theurer tie tamper sounds to reproduce the clamp, tamping sound at low speed, horns... etc
You can download the sound project here. These are the implemented functions:
By the way, many thanks to the JNSForum and the Desktop Station Open Sound Data page who encouraged me to make this project and share it. Check their awesome sound projects for Japanese rolling stock.
You can see some final photos and a video demonstration:
This model is prety much the same than the previous DCC Install published for the Kato 3061-4 EF65-2000, so you can check the previous post here for more detailed information. It is basically the same locomotive with the same hull and space where to install the decoder, and almost the same light board. I just found one small difference in the capacitor compenent.
You can see in the following photo that light board capacitor is so small that is almost imperceptible. This is the only difference I found with the light board of EF65-2000 model:
Strategy used will be the same, so the previous schema to prepare the light board for a wired decoder is still valid:
Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:
I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board. Capacitor is extremelly small in this board!
Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)
Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)
This time I didn't solder the white wire to point (5) and I soldered it directly to the negative lead of the led light. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.
For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). You will need to scratch a litle bit the cooper track of the point (8) as the pad is small as the capacitor. The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).
Here you can see the decoder already soldered and how to fit it in the hull. The same milling is required like for the EF65-2000 that you can check with more detail in the previous post:
This locomotive has been in a shelf for a long time because I felt it quite difficult to install in a first inspection. It seems not to have enough space for a decoder, and the light board is not one of those I am used to install. But finally I found a workaround that worked prety well for me. You will see it takes some time to install, but it's not difficult.
First tricky part is to find a place for decoder. The best place I found is under the roof. You can un-clip the roof from the body and also un-clip from this roof the two pieces in the middle. Under the biggest piece there is place enough for a small decoder (ZIMO MX616R Nano in my case) with the help of some drilling:
You can see here how the decoder now fits and shell can be closed:
Now that I found the place, let's go for the tricky part which is always the light board. My basic strategy is always:
Remove capacitors
Isolate the motor contacts
Reroute the positive lead of the lights to the existing resistor, which is feeded from the track current
Isolate the negative lead of the lights to connect here the white and yellow wires from the decoder
One easy tip to find the positive and negative side of leds is to use a multimeter. Select the continuity checking position (that one that beeps when there is continuity). When you put the red tip in the positive side and the black tip in the negative side the led will glow, and there is no danger to blow the led.
I made the following diagram:
Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:
I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board.
Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)
Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)
Point (5) is connected to the negative side of the right led and here I will solder the white wire. You can directly solder it to the negative side of the led if you prefer. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.
For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).
Here you can see the board ready to solder the decoder:
And finally, mount the body taking care to retoure the wires properly, then the roof y finally the top parts of the roof:
There are two different model number for Kato D51-495 Orient Express'88 model. The first one is the item number 2016-2, with a more detailed cabin and what seems a more detailed model. It is the newest one, but on tracks derails much easily that the old model which is the item number 2006-3. Here you can see my approach to convert to DCC both models:
You don't have to unscrew anything, everything is clipped, and there is plenty of space if you want to use a sound decoder like SD10A form Doehler & Haass. In this case, I decided to use a tiny Zimo MX616 decoder.
Fist of all solder the current wires of the decoder to the current plates of the tender. Don't worry about the length of the wires as there is enough space to hide it. Plates can be easily removed and mounted again with the wires already soldered.
Cabin and main body are removed easily, just with with the help of a thin screwdriver as they are only clipped.
Then pull from the motor wires and un-solder them from the strips that will appear:
Tender weights can be already mounted after passing the motor wires as seen in the following photo. Again, leaving wires too long is not an issue:
Isolate the wires once soldered with Kapton tape:
And this is finally how it looks before closing it:
And now you can compare it with the old model 2006-3, not as well detailed but with a much better behaviour on tracks. To unmount the tender you have to unscrew one of the bogies, don't pull from the tender because in this model it is not clipped. Inside you will see the following piece that is clipped. Here is were you have to solder the motor wires:
To open the main body there is a hidden screw under the very first axle. You will need to move the first axle to one side to access it. Don't unscrew any other screw or you will have a lot of work to put all gears and little pieces in place again...
After removing the motor, cut the motor current plates that are folder to the side. Cut them to do not stand out from the support and avoid a short circuit, and solder the motor wires as you can see in the following photo:
Mounting the whole thing again is a little tricky, you will need three or four hands for it but just be patient and hold everything until being able to screw the bogie under the tender so everything keeps in place. To close the tender you will have to sand a little bit the hull under the front side, where the motor wires pass from the tender to the main body:
Thanks for reading, and Merry Christmas to everybody!!
