Sunday, November 1, 2020

Kato 3060-3 EF65-500 DCC Install

This model is prety much the same than the previous DCC Install published for the Kato 3061-4 EF65-2000, so you can check the previous post here for more detailed information. It is basically the same locomotive with the same hull and space where to install the decoder, and almost the same light board. I just found one small difference in the capacitor compenent.




You can see in the following photo that light board capacitor is so small that is almost imperceptible. This is the only difference I found with the light board of EF65-2000 model:



Strategy used will be the same, so the previous schema to prepare the light board for a wired decoder is still valid:


Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:
  • I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board. Capacitor is extremelly small in this board!
  • Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)
  • Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)
  • This time I didn't solder the white wire to point (5) and I soldered it directly to the negative lead of the led light. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.
  • For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). You will need to scratch a litle bit the cooper track of the point (8) as the pad is small as the capacitor. The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).

Here you can see the decoder already soldered and how to fit it in the hull. The same milling is required like for the EF65-2000 that you can check with more detail in the previous post:







 I hope that you found this useful!






Saturday, October 24, 2020

Kato 3061-4 EF65 2000 DCC Install


This locomotive has been in a shelf for a long time because I felt it quite difficult to install in a first inspection. It seems not to have enough space for a decoder, and the light board is not one of those I am used to install. But finally I found a workaround that worked prety well for me. You will see it takes some time to install, but it's not difficult.




First tricky part is to find a place for decoder. The best place I found is under the roof. You can un-clip the roof from the body and also un-clip from this roof the two pieces in the middle. Under the biggest piece there is place enough for a small decoder (ZIMO MX616R Nano in my case) with the help of some drilling:




You can see here how the decoder now fits and shell can be closed:



Now that I found the place, let's go for the tricky part which is always the light board. My basic strategy is always:

  • Remove capacitors
  • Isolate the motor contacts
  • Reroute the positive lead of the lights to the existing resistor, which is feeded from the track current
  • Isolate the negative lead of the lights to connect here the white and yellow wires from the decoder

One easy tip to find the positive and negative side of leds is to use a multimeter. Select the continuity checking position (that one that beeps when there is continuity). When you put the red tip in the positive side and the black tip in the negative side the led will glow, and there is no danger to blow the led.


I made the following diagram:


Red arrows inticate where to cut the cooper tracks:

  • I personally prefer to remove capacitors and coils from the board as I had extrange behaviours in the past in some models where I kept them. So first of all I removed the capacitor at point 8. Don't confuse the resistor in the middle (we need it where it is!!) with the capacitor in one of the sides of the board.
  • Four cuts are needed to isolate the contact with the motor. I will solder orange and gray wires to points (1) and (2)
  • Red and black wires (track current) will be soldered in points (3) and (4)
  • Point (5) is connected to the negative side of the right led and here I will solder the white wire. You can directly solder it to the negative side of the led if you prefer. The positive side of the right led is already connected to the resistor.
  • For the left led (as it is in the photo) you have to bridge the positive side of the led to the resistor track by soldering a small wire between points (7) and (8). The yellow wire will be soldered directly to the negative side of the led (6).

Here you can see the board ready to solder the decoder:



And finally, mount the body taking care to retoure the wires properly, then the roof y finally the top parts of the roof:



That's all, I hope that you found this useful!





Sunday, August 9, 2020

Battle of Hoth module

Another of my passions, apart from model railroading, is mounting and painting plastic kits. I especially like those old Star Wars plastic kits that were sold as merchandising at the same time that movies were released. I collect all MPC and AMT/ERTL kits sold during the eighties and nineties and when I feel I need a rest from trains, I use to take one of the pending boxes I have and I build the model.


I was in total lack of inspiration to decorate an end loop for my modular layout after I did the "Rice fields" and "Mine" modules, so I decided to make a break and mount the following kit about the Battle of Hoth:

When I opened the box I realized all figures were really small, they could match with our N scale train models. Searched in internet, and this is a 1:156 scale kit. So... why not to mount this diorama in my loop?

These are all the pieces in this kit, very easy to assemble as most of them are complete and you only need to cut them from the blister:


The most time consuming task was to paint each figure:


I was missing some important parts to be represented in the diorama, but thanks to thingiverse.com and the designs made by other people I 3D printed the following pieces:

Tunnel portal and Echo base entrance: designed by my own



Then I started building the "Echo base" as a kind of box, including illumination, RGB leds which allow me to make some nice special effects, and the Millenium Falcon, X-Wing and a couple of Snow Speeders:



And started planning the disposition of all elements:



Mountains reliefs were created using cardboard strips and hot glue, and all covered with plaster cloth. To make the rock walls you can put plaster and, while it is still soft, press with a crumpled aluminum fold:


I wanted this module to be interactive and very visual, so I installed red micro leds in the tip of the AT-AT Walker heads and a green one in the tip of the Ion Cannon:

I also tried for the first time to simulate explosions, fire and smoke following this guide: https://spikeybits.com/2014/10/hobby-how-to-make-explosions-smoke.html

Basically you need filling/stuffing material, normally used for stuffing for soft toys. Craft shops have this, but I bought a pillow in a poundshop which was filled of this material. To shape these fibers I made first a structure with chicken-wire. After painting it with black, yellow, orange and red paint insert a tea candle light. These tea candles are available in ebay and aliexpress and they are very cheap. The final result surprised me:

With everything in place, I covered the whole layout with Woodland Scenics Flex Paste together with Soft Flake Snow. You can check this video demonstrating the application of these products:



I installed an Arduino UNO and connected all lights plus a sound shield to it, and programmed everything to reproduce short scenes of the Battle of Hoth when a train passes or you move closer your hand to the front of the module like "using the force". Sorry because this video was recorded when the module was not finished yet:




Here you have some photos of the finished module:







Sunday, July 26, 2020

Coal mine "炭鉱" module

Following the "Rice fields" module I did the Coal mine (炭鉱 in Japanese) module. This module is inspired in the old great Yûbari coal mine exploited by Mitsubishi Mining. Yûbari is nowadays a city in Sorachi prefecture, Hokkaidô. It started working in 1929, producing 900.000 tons of excellent coal during its best years, and after exploiting different zones around the river Yûbari finally closed in 1990 as it couldn't compete against low cost imported coal.




Mitsubishi Minami-Yubari Coal Mine Precipitator. Source: https://ysnowy.exblog.jp/27696734/

Mitsubishi Oyubari coal mine postcard / 1940, issued by Mitsubishi Oyubari Mining Works

Source: http://www.dagashi.org/tro/yuubari1.html


This decoration was planned for an end loop of the modular layout of 70cm x 105cm. I designed it to have a minimum curve radius of 282 mm to allow shinkansens and long trains to pass and having a small yard to park some locomotive. One of the tracks of the yard is also a programming track.


In the electronics of this module it was also included a loop controller to invert the current when a train is completely inside the loop track.



I used my BQ Witbox 3D printer to print for the first time some original details for this module, like track buffers and tunnel portals:






After laying the track I made the mountains volumes mounting a wooden platform and using cardbox strips. Then it was all covered with plaster casts and added some rocks created with plaster and the Woodland Scenic rock molds:





To blender the rocks with the environment I applied fresh plaster and pressed it with aluminium fold while it was still soft. Stones were painted with Woodland Scenics rock paints and following the "leopard spot" technique that you can check in Woodland's web page:






Next step was to paint with acrylics those places to be covered with earth and vegetation and cover with earth colour, gray and black grout (that type of mortar used to fill the space between floor tiles) each zone of the layout:





Tracks under the coal mine building are completely fake as the geometry didn't allow me to add switches for that, but it was also my intention to simulate an abandoned coal mine with abandoned tracks as it really happened with the Oyûbari line used to transport the coal by train.

I bought a flexible Z scale track and some Z scale coal wagons to simulate the mine carts. The main coal building was a Faller 222205 "old mine" kit:










Last step was to add some illumination and details here and there:






I hope you liked it!